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I know I am not the man I once was, BUT,

the new coil cover for the GPZ14 seems to be a 1/4 inch too small? Nothing I have tried will make it snap-on...

If you have a secret method please let me know!!!!

thanks

fred

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Your coil must have gained some weight from not being used much :inocent: Mike C...:200:

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unfortunately true, Mike...

but, I doubt that is the cause...

fred

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Posted (edited)

Fred

If it is one of the aftermarket covers you can heat some water in a shallow pan.

Briefly dip each tab into the water to soften it and with a gloved hand reshape them to allow a looser fit.

Have a good day,

Chet

Edited by Chet
spelling
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Thanks Chet...

However, I had had many detectors and many coil covers, including the one that came with the GPZ. I have never, ever had to beg, plead or fight to get a cover on. And, this is a MINELAB replacement cover.

It should go on with no more effort than the original. The original was a pain to take off and put on....

I don't think I will be giving this one a bath when I want it off or on...

What's the deal, Bill?

fred

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Posted (edited)

Really strange.  I just replaced mine, with an original Minelab coil cover, yesterday.  A little tight, but the fingers eventually gave in and flexed. 

My old one was just falling apart...

coil cover.JPG

Edited by Andyy
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that is what I am saying, Andyy...I can not get 5 pounds of S)(*& in a 3 pound bag.

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if you live in the desert, put the coil in the frig smear little coconut oil on inside of the cover warm it with a hair dryer and it will slip on.

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They are very tight Fred and have to be lined up perfectly to go on and it can be aggravating , I can send another to try if you want....

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On 5/17/2019 at 4:27 PM, wet/dry washer said:

if you live in the desert, put the coil in the frig smear little coconut oil on inside of the cover warm it with a hair dryer and it will slip on.

Now I know why you call yourself wet/drywasher. :D lol

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desert is hard on plastic. gone for six months got back to the cabin, had ten five gallon plastic water jugs store in the shade. the tops of the jugs lifted off at the water line of the jugs which were only about 3/4 full. replaced them with glass jugs. 

if you don't replace the coil cover soon as you get it. will shrink. coconut oil won't react with plastic so warming with a hair dryer will exspand it enough to slip it on.

 

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WEt/DRY

now that makes some sense...I have had the cover for months but didn't replace it.  I will use the dryer and try it...NOT< the oil, I don't think I want to attract even more dirt and black sand...

Thanks, Bill...they have always been a pain...I will try again and report back.

fred

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coconut oil replaces the flexability in plastic and it won't attract dust. that coil of yours has no flexibility left in it.

when on put a bead of silicon around it.

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WET/DRy;

just curious, Do you have a gpz 7000?

And have you changed the coil Cover?

fred

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no gpz, but lobo that replaced two times. the second one laid around for a year or so, no way it would go on so put the coil in the fridge and smeared the coconut oil on it and heated it with the hair dryer it slipped on. plastic contracts and expands alot.

coconut oil makes one healthy no arthritis, tooth aches and young and happy heart.

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On 5/19/2019 at 3:11 PM, fredmason said:

WET/DRy;

just curious, Do you have a gpz 7000?

And have you changed the coil Cover?

fred

So Fred, how did it go?  I picture you sitting on the floor with a jar of coconut oil and a hair dryer.  Did it work?  More importantly, did you get video? :inocent:

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VERY FUNNY!!! not yet, I am waiting for a warm and sunny day to massage my coil cover...

fred

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1 hour ago, fredmason said:

VERY FUNNY!!! not yet, I am waiting for a warm and sunny day to massage my coil cover...

fred

Fred,

I would bet that the cover is PVC thermoplastic. PVC is easily reshaped at about 175 degrees. It will start losing form at about 220. Any PVC (or other thermoplastic) has a "sweet spot" as far as heat goes and that is when the inside of the piece reaches the optimum forming temperature. The surface is often much hotter and you need to be careful not to overheat the surface and small projections trying to get the core temp right. .

Slowly preheat the item in the oven to about 160 degrees and then take it the rest of the way with a heat gun (not a blow dryer. A blow dryer does not get hot enough to form thermoplastic). A round object like that could be placed on a lazy susan or some other spinning device so you could spin it and evenly heat up those fingers without taking it out of the oven. The trick is to get the core temps into the thermoforming range without overheating the surface and this takes patience. Most guys get in too big a hurry and overheat the items in one spot and warp things. That big flat surface would be easy to tweak if the heat was uneven.

I have made a bunch of PVC items like knife sheaths (Kydex), handgun holsters (Kydex), detector poles (PVC) and all sorts of mounting brackets. I have also done a pantload of plastic welding on HDPE, LDPE and ABS items. Kayaks are rotomolded thermoplastic HDPE and they are easy to re-shape, weld and modify. It is all the same with any thermoplastic as long as you know the exact temperature range you need to shape, bend or weld. 

I use a laser surface thermometer and my kitchen oven to preheat the item to the proper temps for forming and then take it the rest of the way with a heat gun. I know the output temp of the heat gun because I checked it with a mercury thermometer on the various settings. Since you don't need to weld or reshape anything all you really need to do is get the piece above 160 degrees all the way to the core without overheating. I would simply pop it in the oven with a pizza pan under it and foil over it to keep an even temp. Let it sit in the heat for ten minutes or so to insure the core temps are the same as the surface temps and then push it down on the coil. It will go below the forming temps really quick and get solid fast as long as you don't get it way too hot. 

There are lots of HDPE and PVC items that you could make your own covers out of for pennies. I make all sorts of stuff out of "Playskool" kids toys which are HDPE thermoplastic. Pieces big enough to form coil covers are readily available and you could form one as easily as you could fit the factory cover on your coil. I make awesome shake guards, metatarsal guards and all sorts of cool items from old kids toys. Old milk jugs, water cans and 5 gallon buckets can be easily re-shaped into almost anything you need. All it takes is knowing what type of plastic you have and the proper temperatures to form it. 

You can easily weld a new bottom on a coil cover getting thin, repair a hole in a kayak or make a holster for your Glock out of a kid's toy. All it takes is the proper temperature range and filler material.

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Or, you could just wait awhile 'til the weather heats up a bit and leave it out in the sun for about 30 seconds with a raw egg, hash browns and bacon on top of it. Then finger it with a little bacon grease, slip it over the coil and have breakfast! :)

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Well, after praying, cussing and generally getting irritated...the blasted thing is on the coil.

You are correct Bill, if the coil is not exactly lined up it will not go on.  I finally lost patience with the process, took a very deep breath (not easy for me these days) and....

started rotating the cover until the cover practically fell onto the coil...

Why did I not do that first???

If any one else is having this problem....good luck!

ps I really thing minelab could provide some direction, especially to fools like me and Nubies.

fred

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I too have been a victim Fred.... Got words for this, but family friendly forum and Skip would fire me :ROFL:

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Thats right Bill. Watch out for Skip, you dont want him mad at ya. Haha

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