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ArcticDave's Legal Eagle XL


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11 hours ago, Stillweaver hillbelli said:

The pillow block " bearings" of Delrin,HDPE or?  with the metal  surround to capture are slick!

Just regular ol HDPE. I was hoping it would be quieter than rattling inside a metal bushing.

6 hours ago, homefire said:

Delrin is Slick.   LOL    Not far from Teflon I think.  Not so good with Oils or Patrolium Products  I think.. 

Delrin is neat stuff! I have used it once to make some bushings, and it worked very well and still is...as far as I know.

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I could see that being mistaken for a home made IED.

Worked on the tail feathers today. I even got all the holes drilled straight! Made some brackets out aluminum angle. Brace wires will support the tail structure, and the elevators and rudder will hang

Done!

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I've found Vesconite to be better than either Delrin, or HDPE for low-speed bushings. With steel, it's quieter than Delrin, and longer-lasting than HDPE.

Jim

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1 hour ago, Idaho Jim said:

I've found Vesconite to be better than either Delrin, or HDPE for low-speed bushings. With steel, it's quieter than Delrin, and longer-lasting than HDPE.

Jim

Thanks Jim! I'll check it out.

 

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8 hours ago, ArcticDave said:

Thanks Jim! I'll check it out.

 

Dave, if you get ahold of them, they'll probably send you a free sample. They sent me a piece that was 1 1/2" in diameter, and 12" long. I offered to pay shipping, and they said "no problem", "glad to send it".

Jim

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Silicone high temp brake grease

,,,SIL-GLYDE,,,

might  be a good choice for your bushes ,cables, and other  things that rub( to keep wear at a minimum) .

It does not react with  rubber  n plastic stuff that would swell in  contact with synthetic petro greases.

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10 hours ago, Stillweaver hillbelli said:

Silicone high temp brake grease

,,,SIL-GLYDE,,,

might  be a good choice for your bushes ,cables, and other  things that rub( to keep wear at a minimum) .

It does not react with  rubber  n plastic stuff that would swell in  contact with synthetic petro greases.

I use this stuff on a lot of applications on my Toyota 4Runner and can attest that it is a very good product.

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More work done on the flap handle assembly.

I used a roll pin with a couple of -3 washers in between the tabs to keep them aligned while welding them on.

When a coil spring is depressed, there is a slight rotational element(that I was unaware of). That rotation was really jamming up the mechanism. In the third pic you can see the white internal floating piston of HDPE. That was my fix for the coil spring binding on the end of the tube. It works much smoother now with the HDPE rotating against the tube vs the spring.

Bolting or pinning parts together can make it much easier to make them identical.

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Nice, Dave. A coil spring is nothing but a long torsion rod wound in a circle. When compressed, or stretched, it just twists the wire of the coil.

Jim

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On ‎12‎/‎4‎/‎2019 at 4:06 PM, Sonoran Dave said:
 

 

 

 

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These look like something that is sold for my diesel pick up at $15 each to protect wire bundles  from breaking by the fan clutch.  https://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/bullet-proof-diesel-fan-clutch-wire-harness-saver-p/6502051.htm

 

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I got the flap handle and bell cranks welded yesterday. I had to come up with a way to securely attach the two halves together, and ended up sleeving the inside of the tube and using AN-3 bolts through the clam shell and tubing. It is very secure with zero slop. If I get the chance today, I'm hoping to finish the locking portion of the assembly and get some finished pictures.

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Well... I began work on the lock mechanism yesterday and made some progress, but it has an unacceptable flaw. It's far too sloppy. When locked the bell cranks can move almost 3/4". Those bell cranks are directly linked to flaps, so 3/4" at the crank means substantially more at the flaps themselves. I can't have flaps flopping around like a limp noodle...that just won't do.

I think the notch plate I made is good, but the slider needs to be redone. You can see in the last pic, that slider has a very loose fit on the handle tubing and that loose fit translates into slop when engaged. I'll try making a new slider with a snugger fit...but the entire locking assembly may have to go back to the drawing board if the slop isn't remedied.

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I did it!
After a couple of tries... I now have a working locking flap lever! I made the lock slider longer and a tighter fit around the handle tube. I also added another guide pin and replaced the loose linkage rods with welded ones. That really tightened the assembly up. It locks @ 0 degrees, 22 degrees and 50 degrees. It still needs to be fully welded, but it is all in place and it is nice and firm.

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On 1/9/2020 at 7:22 AM, Sonoran Dave said:

I fabricated and welded the hanger bar for the folding wings. This will make more sense after I build the wings. :)

 

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:brows:Looks like where the cloud hooks attach when you want extra climb rate.

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