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Paleomanjim

Puffer in progress!

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Never said anyone was getting down on me Frank, seems more like folks were getting down on each other

No worries here, I like reading all the ideas. I new my original post may ruffle some feathers , but I was actually being my sarcastic deliberately exaggerated self.......I just wanted to post what I was having success using on mine currently .....Carry on ! :4chsmu1:

Oh and, the puffer is looking great...I`d like to see it in action

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No worries here, I like reading all the ideas. I new my original post may ruffle some feathers , but I was actually being my sarcastic deliberately exaggerated self.......I just wanted to post what I was having success using on mine currently .....Carry on ! :4chsmu1:

Oh and, the puffer is looking great...I`d like to see it in action

Thanks, I took some video to study the action after adding a slide gate to the hopper, may post it later.

The slide gate helps a lot to adjust flow to match the bellows tempo. Main problem now is the bellows does not drop as fast as I would like it to so I am limited to 2 beats per second or so. I made the bellows inlet hole 2" diameter and I may enlarge it to 2 1/2" to reduce air resistance on filling. I probably should have used cheaper vinyl cloth also. I bought the best stuff they had and it is thicker/stiffer and thus slower than the cheaper duck cloth. I could add a small weight to the bellows, anyone ever tried that?

Also may put stops or lugs on the rope lever to keep it centered on the eye screw, minor thing but it will keep the lever from sliding around each time. With a bit of fine tuning I think I'll have a decent puffer....jim

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Oh and, the puffer is looking great...I`d like to see it in action

Here is a short clip of the puffer test in the backyard. Question to those with more experience: Does the feed tray loading seem about right? I think it may have been overloaded toward the end of the clip. The bellows drop speed can be seen, seems a bit low to me, what say others? Thanks for any advice.....jim

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I see it is slow on the rebound. Will your fabric "break in" with use? If it does it may create corners that wear holes fast. I like Cordura but boat canvas is almost identical. It is "limp" and wears well.

If you put a skirt over the gate it won't clog. Use a piece of cloth over the gate that will hang down a bit. Fasten it at the sides and leave it open at the top and bottom in a loose loop. You can open the gate all the way and material will only flow out as the table takes it. Like a little distribution box over your gate valve.

You can just open the gate and never worry about clogs or floods of material.

It is a great unit. You will have a great machine when you get it to rebound better!

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Just thought that I would throw out a fact or two,for kicks.

Gold is for a fact not magnetic. Static and magnetic are two complete different animals.

Wood is not magnetic nor is a baloon,but when you rub a baloon on your hair it will cling

to a wood wall.

Gold takes a negative charge when moved in contact with some surfaces. Hot or warm

air passed through certain materials,produce a positive charge. Negative charged particles,

are attracted to a positive charged surface. Hence static cling ,not a magnetic reaction.

Several dust filters use the above ,to trap and hold dust ,and several other types of particles.

No it will not grab nuggets, but it is possible that flour,or gold dust can be held ,on a charged

surface. Also I would say that a lot of the drywashers out there only do a fair job,and some

are a bad joke.But there is some that do an outstanding job. Not all are created equal, some

have serious design flaws.

Indian Head cloth is just a trade name for a type of muslin,or grade of muslin. Indian Head

has a tight weave,high thread count,and is all cotton. Here is another fact,Indian Head cloth,

will produce a static charge under the right conditions. Not as much as some synthetics but,

it will produce . The key for any static to work,is air flow,and totally dry material . Just a humidity

change can affect the charge.

I am not going to badmouth Keene,because there is a potential ,that in the right conditions,

and gold size,air flow,and operator ,that it could have an advantage. The Keene claim is

not false advertising ,because it is based on real science.

Static detectors for commercial and lab work,use gold leaves to function.It is the reaction of

those leaves to static,that makes it work. Gold will only retain a charge on the surface,this

limits the size that can be attracted and held in place. This is why it is critical to classify and

size all material ,to the size of gold you want to extract.

For everyday prospecting or drywashing, the advantage if any ,wouldn't make any difference.

But if you were working with nothing but flour gold,it could possibly be an advantage. For the

time being,I think that I will just stick with my old puffer.

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Dammit Sawmill! Didn't we put that to rest in this thread yet?

I tried a sand blaster hose and flour gold. I thought about trying to change something with the gold particles but was stumped on how to do it.

I heard silk under cotton builds static on a dw table. Dry material really affects static so maybe recovery is enhanced with a little moisture in the air?

It makes less difference than most efficiency factors and could only be noticed under perfect conditions. But it makes for interesting conversation.

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Paleomanjim,

To help with the return, or "drop", of your bellows, attach a spring from the bottom of the bellows to an anchor point

lower on a leg or a crossbar. That should pull the bellows open faster than the slower gravity drop. There is a large selection and availability of different weight (pull strength) springs on the retail market.

Hope this helps.

Greg

Also,

if you think you need to make bigger holes for airflow, think about making holes and flap valves for the bottom of the bellows that would work just like the ones going to the riffles. The valves work opposite each other, so there is no competition for air, but it helps fill the bellows.

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BB

The static charge has to be positive at the tray. Your sandblast thing doesn't prove

anything. Air through a spun glass, rabbit fur,or nylon filter produces the best positive

charge. Moisture will kill any static effect,thus the material being ran ,needs to be dry.

Also the hopper and feed should be steel,not plastic,as does the blower box. The only

static producing part should be the filter. The riffles need to be a neutral

material as in steel or wood. Also the filter can't be grounded to the rest of the machine,

or riffles.Like I said it is not for everyone,but can be a benefit for some.

I have used an electrostatic machine and it does work on fine gold. I wasn't impressed

with it for a general use drywasher though.

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Paleomanjim

Just a couple observations,that may help. The rebound or lag time is slow,because

the bellows is too deep with too long of a stroke for a machine that small. A 4 inch

bellows travel would speed it up ,and still provide plenty of air. Also the material is

a little stiff for a rope pull machine. I bought an air conditioner cover,made from oil

treated canvas . It is light air tight ,cheap,and lasts really well,for bellows material.

My large puffer only has about a 5 inch stroke on the bellows.

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Keep on "tweekin" Jim.
Its all good , that's what D.I.Y. is all about.
Makin changes till yer satisfied :D

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If you run nothing but 1/4" classified material or smaller through the Keene drywasher with "electrostatic properties", it might help increase the recovery rate and only under the right conditions. But if your running 1+ inch material and smaller through a dry washer like the 151, the electrostatic properties aren't going to be of any help in your recovery rate and that's why I say Keene's ad is pretty much a marketing gimmick. I've never met anyone in the field using a Keene who spent the time classifying down to 1/4" or less. The more you classify, the better the recovery rate-- on any dry washer.

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Paleomanjim,

Greg

Also,

if you think you need to make bigger holes for airflow, think about making holes and flap valves for the bottom of the bellows that would work just like the ones going to the riffles. The valves work opposite each other, so there is no competition for air, but it helps fill the bellows.

Thanks Greg, I am unclear on your description of the bellows valves and working opposite each other? I made the hole a bit small figuring I could enlarge it later, which I will probably do. I have seen pics of other units with several holes and I am guessing the reason for that is to allows the flaps to seal better with greater airflow in?

HAPPY THANKSGIVING EVERYONE!

Really appreciate all the input here to help me improve the puffer. It would take me many hours in the field to figure these things out on my own.

BB, really like the skirt idea to distribute feed to the tray, I will be adding that for sure.

Sawmill, I will shorten the bellows stroke, seems like a good idea. I will get some lighter less stiff fabric and use a different pattern this time so that the bellows does not taper at the lower end. I figure that should keep the volume of the bellows about the same but shorten the stroke and allow faster rebound, faster tempo, etc....

I will probably shorten the bamboo levering pole and add stops to position it such that 1/3 is on the hand side and 2/3 is on the bellows side, that allows a very short movement of the lever on the hand side to move the bellows double that distance.

Guess I have a lot to be thankful for. We have family from all over the country here at the house today, the turkey is in the oven, got a good woman, good health, live in the best country on the planet....life is good! Hope you all have a great T-Day......jim

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I completed some modifications and the puffer is finished! After enlarging the bellows inlet hole the drop speed improved and I decided to leave the stroke and bellows fabric as is. I made a new gate for the hopper discharge chute using a section of bicycle inner tube. I took the dry washer out to Gold Basin on Monday and gave it a thorough field test. Although conditions were less than ideal due to recent rains, the dry washer performed well. The washer scored a few flakes and even a small nugget. Kind of a cool nugget, the first one I have found that is wrapped around quarts, has some character! Here is a 5 minute video of the field test.....

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Lookin good !! Recovering gold is a pretty good indicator that its working :D , especially fine gold....Nice job ! Heck , I may have to go drywashing up there sometime :brows:

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Wow Jim! Fantastic video, good audio and a killer lookin drywasher, congratulations on a fine job! :yesss:

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:goodpost::pop: Nice Job!

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