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Blower trouble....again


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Guys, I went out today, toted all my stuff about a mile, got set up only to find my blower wasn't working. In stead of spinning freely when I pull start it, it feels like the wheel is catching on something. So I pack everything back up and head home. I've taking the blower completely apart tonight. Ok I don't know the names for any of these parts but the main bolt that is connected from the motor to the fan, the bolt that spins the fan, somewhere inside that assembly, where the bolt enters the motor is where it's catching and rubbing. Not sure how that happened or what it could be. Figured I'd post and see if any ones got any tips. Thanks Guys.

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Thats the mainshafr going through the motor Should be two bolts around the outside edge,,, possibly 4 mark the housings before pulling them apart, Take the fan off 1st also. You have either got bad bearings ( one at each end of motor ) or the brushes are bad and hanging up. If any of the copper wires are broke just toss it and order a new motor

edit: unless a piece of rock got into the motor...The brushes are under spring tension so be careful about losing parts

Edited by devilishjim
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I think Keene puts a lifetime warranty on their blower motors now...Turn the motor upside down and shake it real good and see if the shaft is loose in the motor...May be a big nugget in there hangin things up :yesss:

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This is an echo blower that I got in January. I think it must've got rocks in the motor. It worked fine last time I used it. It sat in the car for a few days bouncing around then the first couple times I tried to start it yesterday it was catching on something and coughing dust out.

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Can you turn the blower sounds like last time you pulled hose off gravel slid down the hose and into the blower always disconnect the blower end 1st and then shake the hose into a bucket cuz gold will find its way into the hose Try rocking the fan back and forth dont break the blades You may have to pull the outside housing bolts out if you cant shake loose whatever it is ...Good Luck and let us know what you find

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Those little engines rotate at both ends and in three places...the impeller or output side and the cooling fan/starter wheel side. A little gravel could get in between any of these three rotating assemblies.

If it is not between the impeller and the crank case it is in the jerk rope clutch or the cooling fan on the other side of the engine.

That Echo is probably not going to have a catastrophic mechanical failure. I bet a foreign object is causing interfereance somewhere. Lets take it apart and figure out what is grinding.

Edited by Bedrock Bob
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with the fan exposed have you pulled on the starting rope ? Does it turn at all or jammed solid ? If still jammed remove recoil starter assembly and see if it works freely after off of engine. The rope should pull out about 2 feet freely and should pull back in freely.

Check the engine at the fan to see if it will turn with the recoil starter off.

If the flywheel needs to come off, Care has to be taken to not damage the coils under the flywheel ...With the nut lose that holds the flywheel on pull the washer off between the flywheel and nut and then screw nut back on until flush with end of crankshaft which should leave a gap between nut and flywheel ( nut is put back on to protect threads ) next a two person job is two big screwdrivers placed at opposite sides of flywheel to pry up gently on flywheel ( watch the coils ) and at this time with a block of wood on top of nut give it a pretty good tap with a fairly large hammer. If it pops loose it will come against the nut, unscrew the nut and pull off the flywheel. There is a shear key in the crankshaft that the flywheel sits on be sure not to lose it.. Now look for a small rock You should be posting pics of this operation so we can see whats going wrong :grr01:

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Here's pics of how I've disassembled it. The fan is completely off. When I turn the piece of metal that would usually be turned by the rope, it still spins but it feels like its a little tight in one spot. I mean its definitely not spinning freely and obviously catching somewhere but it's not like a chunk chunk feeling like a rock in there, but more like something in there is squeezing it tightly, so I get resistance but not like its grinding through sand resistance. post-26514-0-91166400-1375998983_thumb.jpost-26514-0-62750200-1375999021_thumb.j

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From what you say it does not look good. We will get it over here on the workbench next week and see what it is.

That is why I quit using one to power a drywasher. They just wear out. No leaf blower is designed for that type of duty. As a vacuum and to run a few buckets they are great. But as an air source for production drywashing there are a lot better blowers out there.

The darn things are light and handy when they are running. Some last for years. An engine will only process so much dirt though and a little leaf blower rig just won't get it done on the scale that you need.

IMHO if it is a suitable job for a leaf blower rig you can do it with the hand crank puffer. Any bigger than three or four yards you need equipment designed to run 6-8 hour days. That is difficult to backpack very far.

Edited by Bedrock Bob
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Yea, I did use the hell out of that thing for the last 8 months. It's worked great that whole time , except for the pull string "dog leg" kept getting stuck on it after a few months use. I feel like I was careless and let something fall in, I cranked it a couple times when I was getting resistance and that probably trashed it. Soon as I felt it seizing up I should've just stopped and taken it apart then instead of trying to start it more. Its definitely being used way more than its intended work load so I guess 8 months isn't bad. I may get another one at some point for my little set up, but......want I really want to do is make a couple zephyrs! Bobs homemade dry washer called the zephyr is a awesome hand crank machine. I always had my doubts about puffers but this one put them to rest.

Edited by Caliche Chris
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Thanks Chris! The Zephyr is the real deal and IMHO beats any machine I have ever seen. They take a while to build but they are worth the effort. They save so much time and effort in the field they are worth it.

BTW... I panned the cons and there were only those two specks we left on the table. We recovered nearly 100% in the first pass and seperated 100% of the clean gold from the cons without even dumping the riffle tray.

No motor, no battery, no breakdowns and no cleanup time. Nearly perfect recovery at the rate of 1 c.y. per hour. You can carry the whole deal easily on your back and set it up in one minute. You don't need anything else except a shovel.

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I'm kinda leaning towards possibly a broken piston ring and part of it could be the wing dinger gas we get these days !!! Somebody told me that they were adding a lil xtra oil to the gas to compensate

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I wonder how ethanol in the fuel affects a two stroke? It sure dries out valve guides in a four stroke. It seems it would negatively affect bottom end lubrication in a two stroke also.

I know that the puffer will slow down and stop if you get ethanol in the powerplant. I have tried it and it simply does not work. It seems to perform best when you run peanut butter and molasses during the day and green chile stew at night.

I generally add a couple ibuprofen, some strong black coffee and a pinch of tobacco in the puffer fuel first thing in the morning It makes starting easier and keeps cussing and bitching down to a tollerable level.

Edited by Bedrock Bob
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I wonder how ethanol in the fuel affects a two stroke? It sure dries out valve guides in a four stroke. It seems it would negatively affect bottom end lubrication in a two stroke also.

I know that the puffer will slow down and stop if you get ethanol in the powerplant. I have tried it and it simply does not work. It seems to perform best when you run peanut butter and molasses during the day and green chile stew at night.

I generally add a couple ibuprofen, some strong black coffee and a pinch of tobacco in the puffer fuel first thing in the morning It makes starting easier and keeps cussing and bitching down to a tollerable level.

It sounds like the fuel mixture is close but I think the pinch of tobacco should be added to the coffee grounds which in turn would help clean up the exhaust

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  • 2 weeks later...

My echo was pretty good but I haven't used anything else so I don't know how it compares. I liked it because it was a lot more quiet than most other blowers. It had a much lower octave instead of that high pitched waspy noise some make. I had it looked at and was told the "magneto" was damaged? He said that was a seventy dollar part so its time for a new blower. I know they sell stihl products at the hardware store here so ill go check those out.

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Sounds like a rock got between flywheel and magneto. Thats what provides spark to spark plug. If nothing else is wrong fix it or buy another just like it so that you have spare parts. When using it set it on a piece of plywood or a tarp to help keep the dirt.rocks away from it Mounting in on a 24 or 30" square plywood would be the best.

I worked where we had almost all Echo blowers and trimmers and they held up very well/ I loved the Stihl chainsaw I had.

My main concern is starting, If I work up a sweat before the motor is running then it's time for a change :grr01:

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Al I had a Poulan Pro given to me diaphram in carburetor was shot and no kits made for it new carb was almost the same price as new blower, So I gave it to another friend who tore into it and then threw it in dumpster.. It still looked like new BUT wouldn't run :grr01:

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When it comes to power gas driven equipment the Stihl line of equipment especially the professional levels of their products are top notch in my book. I recently replaced my ole Stihl model 25 chain saw vintage +/- 1985 which saw at least 200 cord of Oak and Hard Rock Maple firewood as well as my go to road clearing blow down remover in the North Maine Woods, was replaced with the new 250 a few months ago ... same saw different number. I expect it will be the last saw I buy. I no longer cut my own firewood so that should extend the life of the saw. Nothing cuts like a new saw, a sharp chain with rakers cut below specs ... BTW don't cut your rakers below specs unless you know what you are doing and what it will do to the action of the saw. It does cut a lot faster because it will cut a much larger chip BUT it also increases the possibility of dangerous kick-backs. User be very aware!!!!!

Mike F

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