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Spray cleaner/lube for firearms


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Is there something you all can suggest for a One-Step spray type action and bore cleaner/ lube that is safe for wood and synthetic stocks and grips? Went looking at the Sportsmans warehouse today... They had several spray cleaners but nothing with a lube after effect.

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Jeff,

I have never used such a product but your question got me curious as well, here's a search page result showing that there sre such products out there, you will have to be the guinea pig unless someone has used one of the product turned up by the search.

http://www.bing.com/...qs=bs&form=QBRE

Here are a few that caught my eye.

http://www.tetraproducts.com/product_view.asp?ID=3

http://www.firearmsandliberty.com/store/index_cart.php?crn=213&rn=429&action=show_detail

http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/270323/hornady-one-shot-gun-cleaner-degreaser-and-dry-lubricant-5-1-2-oz-aerosol

http://firearmprotector.com/about/

Skip

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Haha thanks for the links Skip... Never thought about putting it in a seach engine..Just being lazy I guess. I have never used anything like that either... Just thought it would be convienient to have an all-in-one thing like that...Bill they did have both of those there... I assume just a good blast of cleaner followed by the oil and a good wipe down would work just fine. Probably better than a one step...Thanks.

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BJ first off read your owners manual that should have come with the gun if you bought it

new from a dealer.....

Every time you handle a gun....knife....fishing reel and such you leave finger prints that

can cause rust......I use a special cloth to wipe a gun down after each use or at the end

of the week....

What ever you decide on go sparingly with the oils....most people over do it and the surplus

just collects dust and dirt....

Here's the products that I have used for about 20 + years....Navy SEALs also use it....

http://www.sentrysolutions.com/

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BJ first off read your owners manual that should have come with the gun if you bought it

new from a dealer.....

Every time you handle a gun....knife....fishing reel and such you leave finger prints that

can cause rust......I use a special cloth to wipe a gun down after each use or at the end

of the week....

What ever you decide on go sparingly with the oils....most people over do it and the surplus

just collects dust and dirt....

Here's the products that I have used for about 20 + years....Navy SEALs also use it....

http://www.sentrysolutions.com/

Thanks Don. Haha no manuals for most... My oldest is a Model 1894 Winchester .30-30 lever action... My Grandfathers favorite, circa 1965. Next oldest is my .22lr Savage my Dad gave me for my 10th birthday... I do use a silicone impregnated cloth after cleaning to get get rid of prints etc. ... Yes I agree very little oil is the key...

Steve... Thanks... I'll check that out.

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Kroil, Silikroil, or CLP (and about a zillion other penetrant formulas) work dandy as both a solvent and a lubricant. It is light enough for automatics and wont gum up either. If'n you have an oil finish on the stock it wont hurt a bit but if you have a hard finish it will get under it after a while. I like Silikroil. Freon works dandy too.

Keep in mind lubricating solvents will not touch the copper fouling. Only ammonia and acid based solvents will. If you use a penetrant type solvent for cleaning then you need to use a copper cutter once in a while (you really need to anyway on all high power rifles and pistols). I recommend the Shooter's Choice system but they will all work. When trying to get copper out of the leads in front of the chamber it really helps to use a bore paste to smooth things out after you use the copper cutter. It will reduce fouling in the future and make the critical first couple of inches of rifling as smooth as glass. Your accuracy will improve too. On most older rifles you can use a copper cutter and a bore paste and really see a big difference in how they hit on paper, even if you have kept them squeaky clean with a bronze brush and gun solvent.

I don't oil the surface of my weapons at all. In this climate it only collects dust and gives you a smell that any elk or deer can detect three miles away. I remove it all with a dry cloth after wiping the gun and I wipe the metal with acetone before I go hunting to insure no oils remain. Most anywhere else you need to oil the surface to prevent rusting but not here. The only exception is with blood spots.

A buddy down in Texas is using "Bore Butter" for a rust preventative and the deer are actually attracted to the smell. It is beeswax or glycerin based I think. Anyhoo it will give you a good film protecting the metal and it is not an oil based product.

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What BB said ... in addition NEVER use WD-40 in a firearm ... because of its penetrating charactoristics it has and will cause additional fouling inside the action. When cleaning an action ... most folks never do but should occasionally ... use a good solvent based bore cleaner and compressed air (the canned air used for computers is ideal if you don't have a shop compressor) to blow it out thoroughly .... lubrication should only be with a very light gun oil spray of RemOil or similar product. Less spray is much better than more when it comes to the action.

Mike F

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WD-40 Kills .22 ammo Pronto too. It get right in it and make them Inert.

I used some of that Break Free on a pistiol with Plastic Grips.

They turned into Butter. Boy was I pissed.

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Hoppes No. 9 for cleaning, always used it, always will.

Rem oil for lube.

Smells great too! Dab a little behind your ears on Saturday night and watch the ladies go crazy! And if you put a drop on your tongue it is just like taking a Viagra! It repels mosquitos, attracts women and lowers cholesterol. It is truly the miracle potion.

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Smells great too! Dab a little behind your ears on Saturday night and watch the ladies go crazy! And if you put a drop on your tongue it is just like taking a Viagra! It repels mosquitos, attracts women and lowers cholesterol. It is truly the miracle potion.

:hahaha: ,....That's how my wife caught me, just a little Hoppes behind the ear and I was done for.

...and she's a gun smith too. She def new what she was doin'. :brows:

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:hahaha: ,....That's how my wife caught me, just a little Hoppes behind the ear and I was done for.

...and she's a gun smith too. She def new what she was doin'. :brows:

Oh man! It is below the belt for a lady to use it. The stuff is pure hormones! And smelling of Hoppe's while talking dirty gun talk is more than any red blooded male can handle. I bet she was spanking you with a B-Square wrench on the first date.

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LOL! Sorta like Bananas and Butter or something, Eaa?

Yep Good Stuff.

It is a formula that has been kept secret for years. Some say it is the broth made from soaking a truckload of dirty Dallas Cowboys Cheerleader panties in a vat of boiling bananna oil. All I really know is that it is good for about any ailment and it will get the fouling out of your barrel in just a couple of patches.

Ever try DMSO for a powder solvent? Freon? Horse linament? I suspect all will clean a bore pretty well. None of them have the memories that one whiff of Hoppe's will bring to your frontal lobes.

I used to always have a few boiled eggs in my lunch when I went out. My trail box had a film and the smell of Hoppe's inside it...Just a bit on the surface of the metal. I could lay my boiled eggs in that box and they would turn yellow and taste just like Hoppe's! I associate that smell with my father, with my youth, with hunting, and for some reason with the ladies. It is funny how a smell affects your mind. That particular smell triggers memories in almost all of us I bet. Hoppe's was a smell we were raised with and feel comfortable with.

However... When I was a Property Manager for the State I had a situation where an agency called me about the VA office located in a building that I managed. They smelled this smell emanating from the office and said they were afraid that the fellow in the office was packing a gun. They were afraid the smell was gun solvent. They wanted me to go and confront him and insure he was not carrying a gun to his office. I payed him a visit and the smell was an air freshener plugged into the wall. So for some people even the perception of a gun solvent smell triggers a fear reaction.

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Oh man! It is below the belt for a lady to use it. The stuff is pure hormones! And smelling of Hoppe's while talking dirty gun talk is more than any red blooded male can handle. I bet she was spanking you with a B-Square wrench on the first date.

:inocent::droolin: ...don't know, do ya,.. :brows:

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  • 2 weeks later...

On my guns that don't have plastic on them, I like to use Brake Cleaner spray on them. Works great and have never had issues. I then run a lubed snake through the barrels a few times and a few drips of lube in the action here and there....not much...just a little. I do like those snakes....the work really good for the barrels!

Jim

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As long as you can keep the snakes clean I like them. My problem is that eventually the oily snake winds up on the floor board in the dirt and I am hesitant to drag it back through the bore.

I like spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner too. Especially for the AR to blow out the gas tube and clean the bolt parts. It gets the crust out great and does not hurt the plastic on the mil-spec rifles. I would not get it on a hard wood finish or on your lens coatings! I put a scope sock over my scope whenever I use the spray on the AR and keep the little red tube inside that gas tube and/or action to minimize overspray. It is just acetone under pressure and you can do the same thing with an airbrush or touch up gun filled with acetone. But if you let it splash on a lens or a rubber eyepiece it will ruin it. And it unglues any stuff that might be held in place with adhesive. Some of these cheap scopes nowdays have a BUNCH of glued joints!

When you are shooting those horrid steel cases with cheap ammo you will get a lot of lacquer in your chamber. They slather that crap on and big flakes come off and stick to the inside of the machine work as you are shooting. When the gun gets hot and the chamber gets sticky it pulls even more off the cases and pretty soon you get a big jammin' mess. The acetone is the only thing that will clean it out. No amount of scrubbing with a brush or gun cleaners will do it. Only good ol' fashioned lacquer thinnner. So if you shoot the economy steel cases and are having problems now and again, especially with the round not going onto full battery, I suggest a chamber brush saturated with acetone. It will work every time!

And when that stuff builds up in the shoulder of your chamber you can get headspace problems and a lot of "blow back" from a crappy chamber/casing gas seal. It will ruin your brass fast if that little corner of your chamber gets sticky with lacquer. You will never notice it with steel cases but once you go back to shooting brass the cases will be blackened and fouled from leakage. The problem is just an imperceptable ring of lacquer around that critical shoulder contour in your chamber. A little extra effort with the right sized bronze brush saturated with acetone has fixed many problematic weapons.

I honestly believe this is where the AR-15 gets the bad rap as a "jammer". I have several police buddies that badmouth the AR for failing to go completely into battery and they ALL have been shooting garbage ammunition through them. One look at an empty casing usually tells the tale and a quick spray with carb cleaner and a GI style chamber brush and the AR-15 will run like a racehorse for several thousand rounds between chimney sweeps.

It works the same with all weapons and in a bolt action you may never know it as you have a lever to smash the casing into the gum in the corner of the chamber. The problem will show up in an auto quick due to the incresed volume of rounds going through it and the limited force of the bolt closure. If you EVER have to tap on that bolt forward assist to get a round into battery you can probably fix it with nothing but a good chamber cleaning. And if your bolt action is tough to close up or a pump is hesitant to lock up that is the very first spot I would inspect.

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