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AHEM: coil cover information (not a rant)


FlakMagnet

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I have gone on about this before, I am a fanatic about it.

(NOTE: this could be any coil with tape holding the cover on and with unsealed inside coil cover edges)

The tape surrounding the outside of my Advantage 15" elip. coil was getting frayed

so I decided to take the tape off and check to see if perhaps any dust had gotten in.

I honestly didn't think I had let it go for too long, some parts of the tape were relatively intact.

Wrong rookie...

I was amazed to see how much dirt, dust and grit had made it's way into the miniscule space

between the coil and the cover. Unbelievable.

This is not singling out Advantage coils, it is all of them.

Again I find myself wondering why coil manufacturers can't come up with

a solution that prevents this but I can't really think of a fix either.

My own personal solution is to take the coil cover off and apply a liberal amount

of P-7 2-part Epoxy (thanks Grubstake). P-7 has no metal in it.

It lasts a long time and I am an extreme coil scrubber.

If it does wear away it is easy to touch up.

Anyway, thought I'd put this up as a reminder.

We all know the havoc having dirt inside the coil cover can cause...

All the best,

Flak

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Or you could seal the gap between the cover and coil with Crest Tooth paste.

It dries hard, seals everything out and won't blow any warranty.

To get the cover off you just soak the coil in warm water for two minutes and it's like it was never there.

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Guess since Deming is a long way from most places they haven't heard of silicon sealer yet...a small

continuous bead where the wall and the floor of the skid plate meet and you won't have any sand getting

inside....then PC-7 on the outside....if you ever want to take the skid plate off it's a bitch to do...maybe

there is something good about that tooth paste after all... :idea:

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Does it have to be Crest? Does it have to have Fluoride? Actually I just posted this so I could see the new emoticons Bill's added... :gig: :droolin::woot: Cheers, Unc

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Hey Don,

I had a guy come in my shop with a coiltek 14 inch mono that was just all screwed up and wouldn't do anything but make noise every time he moved it fast or bumped anything. Cover was siliconed on BIG TIME. Took some doing to remove it because he glued the flat part as well and it had about a teaspoon of very fine black sand and other material in it, almost all stuck to my magnet. How it got in I;ll never know because it looked to be sealed :idunno: but it was there. Coil worked great after that and he decided not to buy a new 12 x 15 coil he came to get :bang:

I hear ya Flack and feel your pain....

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Or you could seal the gap between the cover and coil with Crest Tooth paste. It dries hard, seals everything out and won't blow any warranty. To get the cover off you just soak the coil in warm water for two minutes and it's like it was never there.

That is a darn good idea. I bet red enchilada sauce would work great too.

The open loop coils sure build it up fast. There is a lot of surface area around that joint between the cover and the coil.

I always wanted to just coat the thing in good bedliner material. I did a GB2 coil like that and you could not wear the stuff out. I have heard several arguments about how that might affect the performance of a PI but I could not tell any difference with the VLF.

I like White's answer to the problem myself. .

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Simply use GE door and window silicone. UV protected,waterproof seal for more years than I've lived,ez to remove when you wear the coil cover out and cheap. Amazed nobody posted this ???? A bead at the junction of any coil configuration and good to go- :D John

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Sounds good HJ...especially the water proof and easy to remove....in a couple more months I'll be beeping

in rubber boots instead of jungle boots because of the wet vegation...ten minutes out of the truck and I'm

soaking wet from the waist down....what does it come in?...tube like tooth paste or big round tube?

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