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Question to GMT users


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Quick summary... First the GM2...V/Sat... GM3... GM/4MB and then the GMT. Eash were an improvement of the earlier Goldmaster, by that they had additional enhancements (controls). The GM2 was pretty simple. The v/sat had a variable Self Adjusting Threshold (SAT)which could be thought of the cruise control on your car. But the SAT's function was to keep the threashold steady. By that I simply mean increase the recovery time of the threshold. It was added to the back of the control box and could be "clicked off" thus it was essentually the same as the GM2..

The major change was with the GM3. The Goldmasters now sported a "signal boost." The v/sat knob and head phone jack were now on the front panel, On the back panel there was now a crystal lock frequency adjust 48-52 khz so various goldmasters could work side-by-side... The range of ground balancing was improved so it could better handle some volcanic areas. Also, it was no longer necessary to reground balance if the Gain was changed (know as a phase compensated gain control).

This is just a quick summary as I can best remember. I no longer have my GM2 or GM-3... But still have my V/sat... and yes I regret not keeping my GM3; but my V/Sat has has been modded by Bill Lahr and does a pretty good job...

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Jim, THANK YOU so much for sharing you knowledge with me/us!!! :wubu:

I have spent many hours searching the internet looking for those answers. I am currently using a GM3 and happy with it. I have been looking on Ebay for a back-up and haven't seen any GM3's since Nov. 09 (I guess people are holding on to them). I'm thinking of up-grading to a White's TDI in the near future and using the GM3 as a back-up.

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VegasRocker... The GM-3 is in the same box as the GM2 and V/sat.

The later Goldmasters are in a "coin-detector" package with the meter above the handle. I'm still pretty agressive when I go after gold. As you may know alkali dust in parts of Nevada can be very troublesome to electonic equipment... even to camera shutters.... Also, the Gm-3 is a pretty well made example of a higher frequency gold specific detector.

Another one I like is the Minelab FT-17000. But getting it fixed

if it needs repairs is very iffy...

About the TDI... I have one. It is one of the first off the line.

The early ones are known as "hole" detectors as the some of the

electonics is not soldered to the board, but wired through a hole

and can be rewired if necessary... they are not better or less

than the current productive detectors.

I'm not going to paint myself in a corner by saying any detector is

better. The bottom line is the skill of the user. This also goes

for plastic vis metal gold pans and bellow or constant air dry washers :olddude:

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Just a piece of info here-

While nearly all the detector makers somewhere in their sales literature state that a good way to find gold is to search for deposits of black sand with your detector, the truth is that doing so is an utter waste of time. Trying to find gold by seeking associated patches of black sand is a bunch of total BS in my opinion. Why? Your detector cannot tell one mineral from another and there are 1000s of reasons your detector may sound off for a mineral concentration and most of us find them even when we dont want to. Essentialy all soil in every goldfield is mineralized to one degree or another, and your detector cannot discriminate between a bit of mosture, a concentration of deep hotrocks, or iron bearing clay and black sand. You get the same resonse no matter the cause. There are many many reasons other than black sand that your detector might indicate mineral - moisture, salt, patches of tiny rusty trash, patches of iron bearing clay, etc. So if you seek mineral concentrations I guarentee you will find spots of mineralization, but essentially none of them will produce any gold. I know many dozens of successful gold prospectors and I've been pretty successful myself, but not one of them uses the mineral setting on these detectors to find gold. Its sales BS that some guy made up 40 years ago and everyone still repeats it in spite of the fact that its complete baloney. If you want to find gold, remember that gold is a metal and you should set your detector to find metals.

If you want to dry wash, do a sampling grid with your dry washer. If you hit on a paystreak, search around with your dry washer to define and work that streak. Trying to find paystreaks with the mineral setting on a VLF is no better than just throwing darts and taking a chance. If you want to use your detector to find a dry wash paystreak, set it on metal and look for a gold patch. If you find a good nubmer of nuggets concentrated in a small area, you may well be onto somthing that you could work with the dry washer. It may not work 100% of the time, but its way better than searching for randon mineralized spots.....

Chris

My two cents,I have two GMT's myself. I agree with Chris, He's a smart man. Doug :thumbsupanim:thumbsupanim

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Doug... Gosh, I have tried to ignore your last post as I know you mean

nothing personal...

However, who do you think Mr. Reno Chris Ralph is referring to in his post regarding..."Its sales BS that some guy made up 40 years ago..." ?

This would be back in 1969...

This is sad... Mr. Chris Ralph... You are Associate editor of the ICMJ... The ICMJ depends upon advertising... Jim Straight

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  • 2 months later...

Well,I took both coils out and tested a 1.5 grammer by slightly burying it. This nugget was found just about on top of the surface with a 3000 at a different area. Here, there is some interference and the I think this is why the GMT didn't do too well with the test - neither coil picked up the test nugget well, about 1 inch off the ground, but the standard 10" did better than the shooter, it was also quieter. My other detectors struggle at this area as well, I think the interference (and mineralisation) are problematic, even when the detector is running quietly.

As for the mineral reading on the right of the screen, all I can say is "interesting". It is much easier to just search for nuggets rather than carry around a pan and enough water and whatever else, along with a detector. I don't know how some of you guy do it!

I have found the iron readout/grunt to be completely useless, even in quiet ground!

Although, I haven't used it that much and am yet to take it to some proper gold fields.

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You should be picking up a 1 1/2 gram piece with the GMT and stock coil no problem. Play with your settings to get the most "DISTINCT" SOUND. I have found very tiny pieces in heavily mineralised ground with the stock coil as deep. Sometimes with gain set lower than preset and other times with gain and sat maxed....you put up with the ground noise and learn the difference in sound when its a good target.

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You would profit by having a copy of "jim mcculloch's" book on the GMT settings, very inexpensive I will try to find the info for you.

He is listed on the members section of this forum click on members , click on "j" search the j's for jim mcculloch and send him a personal message inquiring about his book. It will definately help you and ask him also about the x-tra program built in to the GMT for tuning he will most likely send you the specs with the book.

ALSO REMEMBER you MUST SCRUB the ground with your coil when you lift the coil above the surface of the soil you are losing depth.

Very Important to remember especially with VLF's.

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Aloha,

Like Frank C. I also use a GMT and always experiment with settings if I am having difficulties during a hunt. One thing I always tell others is that it is like listening to music. You need to be able to define a high C vs a low C and also a quick zip vs a loooooong ziiiiip. Make sense to anyone besides me?

You have got to practice,practice,practice with the settings and use the smallest throw down you can get your hands on. I use a 2 gram piece in a small dose bayer aspirin bottle that I will occasionally bury a couple of inches underground with a small piece of surveyors tape attached, I have been known to lose a bottle or two in franconia.

Good luck and most of all dont quit practicing!!!!!!mad0264[1].gif

Aloha,

Stan aka Kaimi

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You would profit by having a copy of "jim mcculloch's" book on the GMT settings, very inexpensive I will try to find the info for you.

He is listed on the members section of this forum click on members , click on "j" search the j's for jim mcculloch and send him a personal message inquiring about his book. It will definately help you and ask him also about the x-tra program built in to the GMT for tuning he will most likely send you the specs with the book.

ALSO REMEMBER you MUST SCRUB the ground with your coil when you lift the coil above the surface of the soil you are losing depth.

Very Important to remember especially with VLF's.

Hey frank keep your eye open for that book I'k like the info also,

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Aloha,

Like Frank C. I also use a GMT and always experiment with settings if I am having difficulties during a hunt. One thing I always tell others is that it is like listening to music. You need to be able to define a high C vs a low C and also a quick zip vs a loooooong ziiiiip. Make sense to anyone besides me?

You have got to practice,practice,practice with the settings and use the smallest throw down you can get your hands on. I use a 2 gram piece in a small dose bayer aspirin bottle that I will occasionally bury a couple of inches underground with a small piece of surveyors tape attached, I have been known to lose a bottle or two in franconia.

Good luck and most of all dont quit practicing!!!!!!mad0264[1].gif

Aloha,

Stan aka Kaimi

So, if I find a tylenol bottle with a small picker in it in the Vegas area I should get hold of you? ;)

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Hey Guys heres a link to Jim's E-MAIL. OphirAU@msn.com

Just drop him an e-mail asking about purchasing the book and his tip sheet is probably included.

Tell him Frank C sent you to him.

Which book by Jim Mccolugh are you talking about. Can I buy one ?

Opps i did not see this stuff before I typed it...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Has anybody been able to contact Jim McCulloch? Ive tried calling but his number is disconnected and there's been no response to my email. I wanted to get the book with the GMT settings, are the settings included in one of his books offered here at the nuggetshooter.com store?

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Gosh Fred... I tend to agree with you. as some old timers reading this post will remember, this was a common method back in the days of the BFO. I believe Karl Fischer

may have written articles regarding this in either/both the CMJ or Gold Prospector. Also

Karl von Mueller has mentioned this in both articles and his 7th edition book. Moreover,

I believe Wayne Winters also wrote several early articles about this..

The Garrett BFO's and early Compass TR's had mineral-metal settings. I guess it became a lost art during the 1990s along with mine dump sampling to set up a non-autotune metal detector to the ferrous null point...

For those of you who have either the White's GMT or the Teknetics T2, both have this ability (Archerfrog... I'm impressed by your post.)

However, Reno Chris is also right, about hetrorogeneous(spelling) eluvial desert deposits. the later gold machines just can't "cut the mustard"

If anyone out there has one of my early editions (1983) of Follow the Drywashers this

procedure is well explaned in Chapter three; specifically on pgs. 9-10-11.

Are you saying that there is stuff in the newest version of follow the drywashers that is not in the earlier versions ?

I though the version that I own in ca had a section on using the original Tesoro stingray to check samples in TR mode to select which rocks to keep verses which to just toss. But I'm not finding that in my newely purchased copy. I hate revisions.....sigh.

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Toadwhisper... Jim is a friend of mine... He is most knowlegeable. If all else

fails he can be reached by writing to James A. McCullach~~55977 Happy Trail~~~

Landers CA. 92285 this address is no secret... Also... the email address posted

by frank c. should be correct... Jim Mc is an authorized White's Dealer in Landers

and can be reached by writing White's Electonics or calling them 1-800-547-6911.

If all else fails, Jim McCullach can be reached through Jimmy Sierra ph. 415 488 8131

or www.Jimmysierra.com

Jim Gilmore... The latest 7th editon includes all of the earlier versions. And it

is also incuded in some Manufacture's manuals. I believe Bill Southern carrys

copies of the 7th edition in his store...

Hoyt... thank you for posting and updating me regarding Jim Gilmore's post earlier

today... tailgate

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  • 4 months later...

this is very interesting I would like to hear more about surveying with a metal detector.

When do I survey.

How wide an area.

What if I am on very steep rocky terrain.

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archerfrogminer[1].gif

this is very interesting I would like to hear more about surveying with a metal detector.

When do I survey.

How wide an area.

What if I am on very steep rocky terrain.

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Reno Chris

his december post great!

I came across a patch of black sand while exploring a wash in the rocky mountains. My detector was sure there was something there so I stuck my big magnet down there and sure enough A BUNCH OF BLACK SAND! Well apart from going through all that sand with some kind of sluice or something I cannot see how I can find gold in such a place. I did feel excited I had found my first patch of black sand though !

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