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Hey all Gold Bug 2 users,

Since it's winter here in Colorado boorb , I sent both my GB2 control boxes and 3 coils to Fisher Labs in El Paso, TX to have them checked out. Shipped USPS priority (insure contents packed secure and tightly), and insured for $2000.00. It cost almost $36.00, but worth it should the PO damage or loose the pkg. Insurance is peace of mind!

Just got a call from one of the service techs (Daniel) and was told all checks out :thumbsupanim . He opened the control box, checked the circuity, cleaned, straightened the pins where the coil wire attaches to control box, etc - all is good and like new (one is circa 94, the other 2004).

The noise (static) I was hearing was due to the not having enough slack in the coil wire coming out of the coil. Fisher coils are notorious for making a crackling static noise if they don't have enough slack. His recommendation was to use electricians tape to secure the coil wire rather than the Velcro strips that come with the units; tape secures better.

If any of you GB2 beepers think you might have a problem with your unit, call Felix Calvillo at Fisher Labs, - 1-800-685-5050 ext 118, and explain what you think the problem is. More than likely, he will let you talk to one of the service techs, they will listen and give some GOOD advice, but it's difficult to diagnose without having the unit to check out.

Once I get the bill for the check-up, I'll post that information too.

h20prospector

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Hey all Gold Bug 2 users,

Since it's winter here in Colorado boorb , I sent both my GB2 control boxes and 3 coils to Fisher Labs in El Paso, TX to have them checked out. Shipped USPS priority (insure contents packed secure and tightly), and insured for $2000.00. It cost almost $36.00, but worth it should the PO damage or loose the pkg. Insurance is peace of mind!

Just got a call from one of the service techs (Daniel) and was told all checks out :thumbsupanim . He opened the control box, checked the circuity, cleaned, straightened the pins where the coil wire attaches to control box, etc - all is good and like new (one is circa 94, the other 2004).

The noise (static) I was hearing was due to the not having enough slack in the coil wire coming out of the coil. Fisher coils are notorious for making a crackling static noise if they don't have enough slack. His recommendation was to use electricians tape to secure the coil wire rather than the Velcro strips that come with the units; tape secures better.

If any of you GB2 beepers think you might have a problem with your unit, call Felix Calvillo at Fisher Labs, - 1-800-685-5050 ext 118, and explain what you think the problem is. More than likely, he will let you talk to one of the service techs, they will listen and give some GOOD advice, but it's difficult to diagnose without having the unit to check out.

Once I get the bill for the check-up, I'll post that information too.

h20prospector

Just got a call from Fisher Labs. All checks out fine and they will send the units back on Monday. Total cost for diagnostic checks came to a total of $50.00. I feel this is money well spent as I now know for sure that both units and coils all communicate properly with each other. I look forward to spring of next year here in Colorado as it's too cold to beep!

h20

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Guest bedrock bob

Too cold to beep?

Thats mighty darn cold my friend. I've been too tired to fart, too mad to see, and too drunk to fu<k but I never have been too cold to beep.

It is 13 degrees outside right now. Maybe you have a point.

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My GB2 has been giving me a random "hit" on nothing but air sometimes. I figure I have some loose wiring somewhere along the signal path. Going to tune it up this weekend to see if I can ID the problem, but nice to know the service techs are just a short trip away.

Paul

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Guest bedrock bob

I have always had problems with shorts and open circuits in the GBII coils for some reason. I have had many over the years and when I send them back it is always the same story...Bad coil, buy a new one. These have always been internal inside the coil and never a fault of the wire, at least on the outside. I wrap the first four inches coming out of the coil with electrical tape a few layers thick, and then secure it to the pole where it does not move and is very stiff between the coil and the pole. I also wrap the box end with a thick layer of tape and put a I always use a coil cover and the actual coil surface is like new on all of the old coils that went bad over the years, so it is not because of leaking or abrading into the windings of the coil.

Sometimes they will seem fine. A nice threshold hum and no response to metal at all. No repsonse to threshold adjustment either. Just a steady hum. Sometimes they will false signal and chatter when moved, shaken, or bumped. Something obviously loose. And then I had one that would stutter and make noise whenever the coil or wire rubbed against anything. I could hear the lead as it rubbed across my bare leg or against damp vegetation. I had to hold the lead away from any object to keep from having a bunch of noise. If the edge of the coil brushed against anything it would stutter too.

My best guess as to what is making the coils fail is vibration from the road. I am pretty tough on a coil but nothing that should make them short. I have been trying to keep things in padded cases and provide a vibration free ride for the last few years and it SEEMS to be helping. I dont use the GBII much anymore but I have not replaced a coil in 4 years either, so something must be working right.

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h20prospector,

Great post! Thanks for the info. Glad to hear everything checked out O.K..

Your post did bring up an interesting point, though. What is the proper method for wrapping a coil wire? I've seen other posts mentioning this but they don't go in to any great detail.

I start by going straight up the "coil shaft" with the wire and, like Bob, secure with electrical tape about 4" up from the coil. I then keep it straight (no wraps) until I hit the main shaft and then wrap TIGHTLY (coils right on top of each other) until 2"-3" from the box then bind again with tape. Is this correct? Doesn't seem to give me any problems. My concern is whether or not the coils should be wrapped right on top of each other with no space between them up the main shaft?

Dean

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Guest bedrock bob

Once that wire gets about a foot from the coil it matters not how it is wrapped. I have heard a whole lot of fellows tell me that they must wrap the wire around the pole in a certain way for "maximum sensitivity". Not one of them has been able to find a smaller or deeper piece of gold than I can with their special wrap. As you can see I dont use a pole, I dont wrap the cord, and I dont even put the box on the pole. I defy anyone to wind that cord in any fashion and make a GBII perform better than it would with a loose cord, as long as the slack does not come within about a foot from the coil.

You can wrap the cord around your wanker and the GBII will do what it is designed to do, or you can add fifty feet of extension lead and drop it down a crevice. it is all the same.

Bedrock Bob

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h20prospector,

Great post! Thanks for the info. Glad to hear everything checked out O.K..

Your post did bring up an interesting point, though. What is the proper method for wrapping a coil wire? I've seen other posts mentioning this but they don't go in to any great detail.

I start by going straight up the "coil shaft" with the wire and, like Bob, secure with electrical tape about 4" up from the coil. I then keep it straight (no wraps) until I hit the main shaft and then wrap TIGHTLY (coils right on top of each other) until 2"-3" from the box then bind again with tape. Is this correct? Doesn't seem to give me any problems. My concern is whether or not the coils should be wrapped right on top of each other with no space between them up the main shaft?

Dean

Dean,

On the bottom of page 15 and top of page 16 in the book titled "The Complete, Unabridged Zip Zip" by Larry Sallee, it shows and talks about Managing the Coil Wire. Specifically, "Run the wire down the rod right to the end at the nylon nut and bolt that holds the coil on. Then use a small nylon wire routing clip attached to the nut and bolt to hold the wire near the coil as it runs from the rod to the attachment point of the coil." This was the place that I did not have secured properly, and is the point that I was getting the static and false signal from. How you secure the coil wire from there is a matter of preference. Bedrock Bob has some good suggestions about wrapping the coil wire with several wraps of electric tape at the point where it comes out of the coil, and at the point where the coil wire connects to the control box. This is extra protection as these are two weak points. I saw how he does this just after this past Easter when I joined him to nugget hunt on one of his claims in New Mexico. It was pretty neat looking. Again, I think it's a matter of preference how you wrap the coil wire between the control box and the coil. I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do it. If you don't have that book I mentioned at the beginning of my post, you might be able to see it online, but I'm not sure.

h2o

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