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dry washing questions....


EbonBetta

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Here is a few things I've contemplated and wondered if anybody else has any thoughts on the subject.

After a cleanup do you use dirt from your tails or just throw dirt in the hopper to getb the drywasher loaded up ?

If the hopper goes complete empty do you start losing gold out of the riffles ?

I have always heard that one should break up all the clumps to get all the gold but , I got dirt enough to dig for a hundred years so if I just dig and do not waste time breaking every little clod up wouldn't I get more gold from the dirt in the first place ?

And a last though just because I'm a little different. I take vicoden for pain. If the ranger comes and stops me could I get a DUI, Drywashing under the influence ?

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[quote name='EbonBetta'

Here is a few things I've contemplated and wondered if anybody else has any thoughts on the subject.

After a cleanup do you use dirt from your tails or just throw dirt in the hopper to getb the drywasher loaded up ?

That would depend on if you want to re-run your tailings or keep loading new soil.

If the hopper goes complete empty do you start losing gold out of the riffles ?

Not if you have a good drywasher, an yer set up isnt extremely steep, I watch ol timers let the hopper empty itself an then they let the machine run for awhile to get rid of some of the overburden.

I have always heard that one should break up all the clumps to get all the gold but , I got dirt enough to dig for a hundred years so if I just dig and do not waste time breaking every little clod up wouldn't I get more gold from the dirt in the first place ?

If you dont break up any clumps that you take from the earth you're THROWING AWAY GOLD. "Sure as the lord made different size drywashers" an little green apples, GOLD always seems to be hidden in clumpy or clay packed soil.

I doubt you would get more gold even while panning with water did you ever notice how the gold always seems to hide around and under other heavies ???? Its worse in the raw earth, or should I say better at hiding in the raw earth.

And a last though just because I'm a little different. I take vicoden for pain. If the ranger comes and stops me could I get a DUI, Drywashing under the influence ?

WOW this last question is a duzzie, I guess if hes a real DORK....you could.

EBON , Sounds like youre spendin more time at the computer that shovelin into the drywasher...... :laught16: :laught16: :laught16: :laught16:

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[quote name='EbonBetta'

Here is a few things I've contemplated and wondered if anybody else has any thoughts on the subject.

After a cleanup do you use dirt from your tails or just throw dirt in the hopper to getb the drywasher loaded up ?

That would depend on if you want to re-run your tailings or keep loading new soil.

If the hopper goes complete empty do you start losing gold out of the riffles ?

Not if you have a good drywasher, an yer set up isnt extremely steep, I watch ol timers let the hopper empty itself an then they let the machine run for awhile to get rid of some of the overburden.

I have always heard that one should break up all the clumps to get all the gold but , I got dirt enough to dig for a hundred years so if I just dig and do not waste time breaking every little clod up wouldn't I get more gold from the dirt in the first place ?

If you dont break up any clumps that you take from the earth you're THROWING AWAY GOLD. "Sure as the lord made different size drywashers" an little green apples, GOLD always seems to be hidden in clumpy or clay packed soil.

I doubt you would get more gold even while panning with water did you ever notice how the gold always seems to hide around and under other heavies ???? Its worse in the raw earth, or should I say better at hiding in the raw earth.

And a last though just because I'm a little different. I take vicoden for pain. If the ranger comes and stops me could I get a DUI, Drywashing under the influence ?

WOW this last question is a duzzie, I guess if hes a real DORK....you could.

EBON , Sounds like youre spendin more time at the computer that shovelin into the drywasher...... :laught16: :laught16: :laught16: :laught16:

Well lets see the temp is 105+ I put suntea out classify 4 buckets of dirt then go make ice and have a qt of suntea. Surf the net for a half hour and then I run the 4 buckets in the drywasher and repeat the process all over.. seems ok to me 8-).

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Sounds to me like you got it made kid. ENJOY

Wow, Kid...at 52I do not feel like a kid hahaha

But for once in my lif3e zI have surely got something here that othjers would surely envy.

So I may not have tons of Au but I got what I need. :innocent0002:

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EbonBetta,

Everyone has their own way of drywashing. All the years I've been at it, I've adapted ways from other oldtimers to a point that I'm happy with my style.

I always run my tailings twice, I need the excerise, the gold that is locked into your riffles is not going anywhere so do not worry about it.

I break up all clods. I usually put them into a pile and crush them down with my boots or shovel. One of my better days drywashing yielded over 8 ounces from clods alone. Yes you read it right. Those that have worked with me know that you breakup everything. Even sometimes your truck gets broke up too. :laught16: :laught16:

OL'29er :laught16: :coffeetime:

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Hey Bob

Do you get the boots at Clodhoppers R Us or are they just regular

boots? :laught16: :laught16:

I quit stomping clods because every time I stomped them in a circle

it would start raining. :hmmmmmm:

I agree those clods can hide most of your gold. Without crushing

them you are just wasting pay dirt and working twice as much for

less gold.

Ebon

I run my tails several times. While you are loading the main feed

hopper with raw material throw a couple shovel full of tails into the

the batch. After you clean your riffle tray prime it with tails before

loading the feed hopper.

I always just give the machine just a few quick cranks at the end

of a run before pulling the tray for cleanup to run off excess dirt.

I never let a machine run or crank one very long after the feed

hopper is empty . If you have fine gold or flakes that haven't worked

into the riffles you can lose it by blowing it off of a bare cloth.

You can get rid of all the excess sand and dirt by doing a good

shake down and save all your fines. Paleface is a wizard at doing

the shake down. He can do it so well that just about anything left

in the tray is gold and a tiny bit of black sand. :bowdown:

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You can get rid of all the excess sand and dirt by doing a good

shake down and save all your fines. Paleface is a wizard at doing

the shake down. He can do it so well that just about anything left

in the tray is gold and a tiny bit of black sand. bowdown.gif

Yup an I have been practicing that shake down since the day you guys were here, an I'm gettin the hang of it along with "palming" the pan off.

Thanks Paleface.

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You can get rid of all the excess sand and dirt by doing a good

shake down and save all your fines. Paleface is a wizard at doing

the shake down. He can do it so well that just about anything left

in the tray is gold and a tiny bit of black sand. bowdown.gif

Yup an I have been practicing that shake down since the day you guys were here, an I'm gettin the hang of it along with "palming" the pan off.

Thanks Paleface.

So whats the shakedown ?

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hmmm slightly concerned now. Never thought of or heard of preloading the riffles. What is the purpose or idea behind this? I usually take my vaccumings back home to pan during the week so I have stuff to do but this last week I dumped it through the drywasher. Didn't get any gold but got some from the dirt I ran through from the upper layers. Maybe that gold off the bedrock went out because the riffles weren't preloaded??? this seems weird to me. Oh by the way large gold buddy blower style.

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" Hey Bob

Do you get the boots at Clodhoppers R Us or are they just regular

boots?

I quit stomping clods because every time I stomped them in a circle

it would start raining. "

Sawmill, I have to have mine(unless Wallyworld has a special) made special. 81/2 5E, not a common size :laught16: :laught16: my foot is as wide as it is long :tisc-tisc:

I use to dance in circles too till the rains came. So I figured I would just stomp up and down on them and all I got was lightin..... Just micro-nugget. :laught16: :innocent0009:

Now back to drywashing, since I'm on no schedule at all I figure it pays to run material 2 maybe 3 times. By doing this it will dry out damp material which can be mixed with new to help dry it out. Works for me.

Bob :coffeetime:

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Hey Jagdctr, By preloading the riffels I meant taking some dirt from the tailing pile and throw it on the riffles sothe rocks and gravel do not all fill up the riffels when you first start off. I do not know if it helps but for me I am only running <1/8 any way. If the GMT cannot detect a larger nugget I give up.

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Its an old habit that many of use oldtimers use. Preconditioning the riffle tray was done to get the sizing off of the cloth when one could not pre-wash new cloth. I do it to get my drywasher conditioned for the days run. I always throw a small shovel of tailings in to precondition before each run. It also allows the material to begin to flow right away instead of loading up at the top first.

OL'29er :coffeetime:

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It took me awhile to figure out what you guys were talking about...preloading...etc...We call that PRIMING Like a water pump that needs to be primed I always "prime" or spread dirt completely over rif tray before starting the bellows. It seals the rif tray to allow your suction action on the bellows, I don't know about blower type drywashers never used one always bellows or "puffer" I guess on a blower type with constant air flowing you might not need to. ????

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I did not know that. Since I bought Bob's Keen Puffer I haven't had time to prod Lucky Joe into a trip to the Valley of the Dale. When it cools off a bit I want to try it out. All I have ever used is a blower type machine that all you do is start up, and feed. Thanks old guys.

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I did not know that. Since I bought Bob's Keen Puffer I haven't had time to prod Lucky Joe into a trip to the Valley of the Dale. When it cools off a bit I want to try it out. All I have ever used is a blower type machine that all you do is start up, and feed. Thanks old guys.

Dave you listen real close to that drywasher....... It'll lead you right to the gold. It has a nose for it :laught16: :laught16:

Bob :coffeetime: :innocent0009: :laught16:

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  • 2 months later...
  • 5 months later...

Hey Ebon,

If you don't want to break up your clods, I'll be happy to work your tailings <img src="http://www.nuggetshooter.ipbhost.com/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/innocent0002.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":innocent0002:" border="0" alt="innocent0002.gif" />

I do not think many would find much in the tailing where i was working. I pre classify to minus 1/8 .

The gold in the area is all fine but i find decent quantity with my little drywasher. If i ever get back i plan to buy one of franks drywashers and see if i can double my production.

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Simply lay down a strip of insulating tape under ,like used on doors ,to seal your riffles and forget preload archaic bandage to try and compensate for hump and bump style antiques--Just take a read on Jim Straights booklets on drywashers and procede onward and upward--John :thumbsupanim

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Hi Ebon:

I assume your initial question refers to a puffer style dry washer. In order to 'prime' a puffer it is necessary first to pull some dirt down to cover the riffle tray cloth. In other words, if you do not cover the riffle tray cloth with a layer of dirt, then there is very little resistance and the air pressure always will take the path of least resistance [i.e., it will tend to blow up through the bare riffle tray cloth and not through the upper end where the initial surge of dirt drops down from the grizzly]. By pulling down some dirt and covering some or most of the cloth, then the air pressure is forced to go up through the dirt and thus begin the wump-wump, clackity-clack action. I guess what you are wondering about is if pre-processed dirt should be used for this purpose to minimize potential loss of values. In a technical sense, yes, you are right. But in a real world sense, unless you are in some VERY, VERY rich dirt, I doubt it would matter much at the end of the day.

As for the clod balls, they do indeed trap small gold. Depending on how tough these clod balls are [i.e., resistant to crushing], and how rich or lean the pay, sometimes it might pay better to just not divert energy trying to get every speck. By setting up a progressive terracing pattern of digging, you can recycle some of your energy more efficiently such that your boots are pre-crushing material as you simultaneously are breaking up the next layer. This method is best on sloped ground -- not so good on flat areas. Bottom line: there is a direct and strong correspondence between the volume of dirt shoveled and the size of your recoveries, but as between two equally strong shovelers, the one who utilizes his energy more efficiently will wind up with a fatter poke.

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I can fully understand the relation ship between moving more dirt means more gold. I try to process the dirt that closest matches the gold that is in the area. if my gold is all -1/8 the I really do not want to load the drywasher with lots of material that will push the gold out. but i also do not which to spend hours to classify the dirt to get their.

Hi Ebon:

I assume your initial question refers to a puffer style dry washer. In order to 'prime' a puffer it is necessary first to pull some dirt down to cover the riffle tray cloth. In other words, if you do not cover the riffle tray cloth with a layer of dirt, then there is very little resistance and the air pressure always will take the path of least resistance [i.e., it will tend to blow up through the bare riffle tray cloth and not through the upper end where the initial surge of dirt drops down from the grizzly]. By pulling down some dirt and covering some or most of the cloth, then the air pressure is forced to go up through the dirt and thus begin the wump-wump, clackity-clack action. I guess what you are wondering about is if pre-processed dirt should be used for this purpose to minimize potential loss of values. In a technical sense, yes, you are right. But in a real world sense, unless you are in some VERY, VERY rich dirt, I doubt it would matter much at the end of the day.

As for the clod balls, they do indeed trap small gold. Depending on how tough these clod balls are [i.e., resistant to crushing], and how rich or lean the pay, sometimes it might pay better to just not divert energy trying to get every speck. By setting up a progressive terracing pattern of digging, you can recycle some of your energy more efficiently such that your boots are pre-crushing material as you simultaneously are breaking up the next layer. This method is best on sloped ground -- not so good on flat areas. Bottom line: there is a direct and strong correspondence between the volume of dirt shoveled and the size of your recoveries, but as between two equally strong shovelers, the one who utilizes his energy more efficiently will wind up with a fatter poke.

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