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Bedrock Bob

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Everything posted by Bedrock Bob

  1. I read in some gun magazine about killing buffalo. I know it is true because I really believe it. During the massacre years they generally used a 45-70 black powder cartridge and the average shot was 150 yds. The bullets were generally 375 gr. .456 dia. soft lead. The charge was 70 grains of FFF black powder. They killed hundreds of thousands of buffalo. Those rascals were as big as Slim's mobile chateu. We are talking a lot of animal. With a 375 gr. projectile driven with 70 grains of black powder in a breech loaded weapon. So it really does not take much more powder than that to get it done with a muzzle loaded bullet. Maybe 10 -15 grains. Shooting balls is a bit different than bullets. There is a whole lot less bearing surface on the projectile. As a result less pressure because there is less drag. So charges can increase. Balls are (generally) lighter than bullets. Again less pressure so charges can increase. So a muzzleloader will take a little more powder with a ball than a bullet to get the same pressure. And you can pour a lot of powder before you see critical pressures because there is less resistance at the projectile. So a ball shooter might use more powder than a sabot shooter. Maybe quite a bit more if they were shooting long ranges.
  2. You are correct about the twist. You should stick with balls. Conical bullets might shoot o.k. but you will have to experiment. Different diameter balls and varying thickness of patch material to get the right fit to the bore. That is the secret. I would stick to Pyrodex RS. That is the best alternative to black powder. Some guys use a few grains of finer pistol powder (FFFG) first and then rifle powder over it. But start with straight Pyrodex RS and you will probably never want for more. Most guys pour too much powder. They think they have to shoot 100 grs or they are not shooting enough gun. This is backwards. Most rifles shoot best between 60 and 90 grs. Each gun is different and barrel length plays a big role. But keep it down under 100 grains and shoot plenty of paper until you know where the sweet spot is. Unless you are hunting Yak at 500 yards about 70 grains is all you need. That is my spin on it. I don't shoot that type of rifle anymore. But that is my impressions based on my limited experience. Hope that helps.
  3. Yeah! He casts a mean shadow doesn't he?
  4. Here is a glamor shot of his pretty face.
  5. I decided to build a new critter with some materials I gathered last fall. A highly poisonous spider. His abdomen is a datura ferox pod. His body a datura inoxia pod. His head is two mescal beans. His legs are eight devil claws. His fangs are barrel cactus thorns. His eyes are clusters of goatheads. The mescal beans (New Mexico Mountain Laurel) contain cystine, a lethal alkaloid similar to nicotine. The datura ferox (Armored Datura) is loaded with scopolamine and the datura inoxia (Jimson Weed) has atropine. Just a little of any of these alkaloids will give a guy a dirt nap. So this rascal is truly venomous. There is only one of these spiders in existence. But there are spider eggs all over the work bench and I think a new swarm is going to hatch.
  6. Mike is telling it like it is. He is giving you excellent advice. He is trying to tell you that the deformation happened as a result of detonation. And not because of an impact. He is 100% correct. I think everyone commenting here has made it clear they agree. You should seek knowledge rather than pondering the cracks in the sidewalk. You have a good rock worthy of further investigation. You came here for our "expert advice" and our expert advice is to forget about the crack in the sidewalk, paint the fence and seek someone who can evaluate your specimen. If you are not that interested in pursuing it and just want to daydream or ponder possibilities then that is just fine too. You don't need our advice for that. But don't get frustrated because you are getting our advice. Because that is what you asked for
  7. So... Last night I started missing targets. I put some shots on paper and the pattern was a couple inches high and right. It took several adjustments to get back to zero. But I printed a tight pattern. A couple dozen shots and I was off again. I tightened everything up but found no loose fasteners. Re-zeroed. Shooting perfectly. About 20 more shots and it was off again. I figure the recoil has trashed the scope. The Barska scope lasted about 3500 rounds. It was an economy scope that I was skeptical about anyway. The objective adjustment was out of wack from the start and I had to screw the eyepiece all the way out to get a good focus. It lasted longer than the piston in the rifle so I guess that is not too bad. I have been shooting the heck out of it. Probably more shots in six months as most people fire in a lifetime. I just ordered the Hawke 3-7 40mm. for the rifle. It is still an inexpensive scope but it is a lot better than the Barska. It also has a lifetime warranty and I know this outfit has good warranty service. It will take a couple of weeks to arrive so until then I will be shooting all over the place. I am sure my son will take full advantage of my optical handicap. I might take the scope off and just practice with iron sights for a while. The rifle has nice sights with the illuminated dots. My patterns aren't as tight with iron sights but I can still hit beer cans at 20 yards with it.
  8. I have a .50. But I shoot .44, .45 and .456 caliber bullets. I shoot .50 dia. buffalo bullets once in a while. And Powerbelts once in a while. But saboted projectiles in a .502 bore is what I am referring to above.
  9. Blackhorn 209 is strange stuff. It is tubular. It gives it more surface area to burn faster. You can string it like beads. It is for the most part smokeless powder. It comes in "Ten ounce pounds". The can looks like a one pound can but there is only ten ounces in it. There is a special "equivalent" graduated measure. I weigh the stuff. I use 60 grains (which is roughly equivalent to an 85 grain charge). 250 gr. .452 Horandy FTX. Harvester red crush rib sabots. Winchester muzzleloader primers. There is virtually zero powder fouling. It pits the nipple under the primer though. I had many hundreds of shots through the rifle and the nipple was perfect. After 60 shots using Blackhorn I had pretty bad erosion on the stainless nipple. And a little residue around the breech. I thought it might be a headspace issue. But I changed the nipple and went back to Pyrodex with no problems. So it seems to be the powder is pressuring up more and forcing gas out around the primer. With my pet load you can shoot 100 yard groups pretty much touching. 1.5" center to center and very consistent over many shots. The pattern at 200 is almost identical. You can substitute the 60 grs. Blackhorn for 85 grs. Pyrodex RS and do exactly the same thing. I put one wet patch and one dry patch between each shot when shooting Pyrodex. When shooting Blackhorn I have put 25 rounds downrange one right after the other with no change in seating pressure and no change in accuracy. I bet you could shoot 50 rounds and not have to patch it. The Blackhorn does not recoil as much. And the sound is different. And no smell. Using loads like these the gun is easy to shoot. Not much recoil at all. Certainly nowhere near a .270 or an '06. It is accurate and has plenty of energy out to 200 yards for deer. You can pour a lot more powder and increase the recoil to get a little more speed. But accuracy suffers and it costs a bunch more. And you don't get much more speed/distance. If I were to hunt elk with it I think I would go with .456 bullets about 350-375 grs. Over a 90-95 gr. powder charge. I might increase the charge a bit depending on accuracy. You can pour 150 grs. in this gun but I wouldn't shoot it. If you seated a 375 gr. projectile over a load like that it might give you a bloody nose. If you seated a 400 gr. bullet on that much powder it might take out your earliest memories.
  10. Have you had any luck with triple seven powder? When it came out everyone raved about it. I hate the stuff. It leaves the worst fouling and will screw up the skirts of the sabots trying to seat over it. I went through a couple pounds and just hated it. Some fellows seem to get it to work. But I went back to Pyrodex RS.
  11. Get a .456 mold and some Harvester sabots if you want to shoot cast projectiles. I shoot cast .44 and .45 but find the cast bullets are just not as accurate. Once you get the temperature perfect and all the bullets are coming out the right size things get better. But I have not had good accuracy with cast. The heavier and longer .456 will be easier to cast and have less variance. They are twice as big so your variance makes half as much difference. They will kick the everlivin crap out of you but will land in the same spot. Just my two cents.
  12. A Powerbelt will go about a foot down the barrel without any powder at all. Try it! Then compare the accuracy between a 209 shotgun primer and a 209 muzzleloader primer. You will be convinced. A small pistol primer is even better. So is a small orifice breech plug. Blackhorn is a bit different. It is hard to ignite. They recommend a regular shotgun primer. So it all depends on your choice of propellant. Also what type of sabot. Or lack thereof. The twist for round balls is much less than saboted bullets. My gun won't shoot balls well. And a barrel designed for balls won't shoot sabots well. I am not sure what the twist is but it is MUCH less than barrels designed for a ball. Im thinking 1:24 but I am not sure about that.
  13. Shotgun primers suck for accuracy. They are just too hot and cause the projectile to "jump" off the powder charge before it ignites. I use a 209 muzzle loader primer that is toned down for inline rifles. They make special small orifice breach plugs that help. And even breech plugs that use pistol primers. If you want top notch accuracy stay away from shotgun primers. Especially magnum primers.
  14. It shoots anything well. I like Hornandy 250 grain FTX bullets in a Harvester crush rib sabots. 452 dia bullets. It shoots Pyrodex RS or Blackhorn 209 equally well. No problem getting 4" at 200 yards. My son shot a nice buck last year at 225 yards with a lot less rifle. He got a perfect heart shot and the bullet passed all the way through and out the other side. I would feel confident out to 200.The pattern is about the same at 200 as it is at 100. It does not shoot TC sabots well. They are just too small and do not engage the rifling. But Harvester makes the stuff you need to make them shoot well. The only rifle bullet in .45 available in bulk is the FTX in .452 diameter. Otherwise you have to go .44 or .456. Or buy really expensive bullets. Regular Hornandy XTP pistol bullets in .430 are great out to 100 yards. They aren't long range bullets though. Here are the pistol bullets at 100 yards over 60 hrs. Blackhorn. The rifle bullet pattern is a little tighter just because they are a little more concentric and a bit longer ogive. Blackhorn is expensive stuff. You can shoot 20 or more shots without patching and clean the gun with 3-4 patches. But Pyrodex is just as accurate patching between shots. I think the big .456 bullets have the best accuracy and energy potential. Harvester makes sabots that will handle the long bullets. If I was shooting over 200 yards that is the way I would go. Especially with elk. The trajectory would suck but the end result would be better.
  15. Yo. 50 cal T/C Encore. Leupold 1.5X4 scope. Some rifles will drive tacks. This one drives railroad spikes.
  16. I had tendonosynovitis in the tendons of my left wrist. A tiny cactus thorn in the joint of my little finger caused it. Man what pain. Excruciating. I did physical therapy and equine sized ibuprofen for a couple months. And had to sleep in a brace for over a year. The swelling was so bad it looked like a snake bit my hand. My bony fingers looked like fat little sausages. I could not touch my thumb and index finger together for several days. I remember the day I managed to pick up a sheet of paper. That is when I could start crumpling a plastic grocery bag for therapy. They had me grab a corner and try to wad it up using only finger movements. I bet it took three days before I could wad up a stupid plastic bag. I couldn't imagine having a big tendon in my leg like that. You just can't get away from that kind of pain. Once you damage a tendon your body goes crazy on it. The swelling and antibodies often cause more damage than the initial insult to the tendon. I hope you get better quick. And I hope you don't have to have someone whittle the bark off your tendon. That would suck double. I drink cranberry juice for pain and swelling. Lots of it. A half gallon or more a day. I swear it reduces joint and tendon pain. And i knows it helps swelling. I think it makes you pee out all the stuff rather than it settling in your joints and around connective tissue. An old curandera told me that many moons ago and I swear it works. It darn sure won't hurt. Buy five gallons and drink it for ten days. It sure has worked for me. I hope you get better quick. Let us know how you are doing.
  17. Hey Slim! Regular sunlight does a pretty decent job at differentiating gold from lead and brass doesn't it? I use only the purest sunlight and a set of special glasses. It makes the gold appear yellow and the lead dull grey. Silver appears as a white metal and copper a red toned metal. Brass shows up as a brassy yellow. I have used these special glasses and distilled sunlight to differentiate and locate metals for years. You can get a pair of glasses at Wel Mart for ten bucks and I will custom make a sunlight purifier for you for the low price of $1000. That will enable you to use light to differentiate metals too!
  18. Can you tell us why you think an assay might provide information on origin? Can you tell us why the damage to the sidewalk might provide information on origin? I just don't understand how either of these get you any closer to figuring out if this rock is meteoritic. Can you explain the rationale? I like the rock and I think it deserves further investigation. I am just not sure why the path is leading in the direction it is. It does not seem to be the way to go about investigating a suspect meteorite and I wonder why you have chosen this path.
  19. Photos are weird. My digital camera is useless. It will not focus without the flash. But my son's phone camera takes good pictures. I am going to have to figure out how to get some photos. The scorpions do strange stuff. Two will hold hands and dance around. Sometimes they move quick and jump and other times they lay flat and freeze. They are strange critters. They will snag moths and sting them. Super aggressive and they drive that stinger in like they mean it. Sometimes they carry a bug in their pinchers and other times in their mouth. Sometimes they are coiled up and other times they are all laid out and relaxed. It is pretty fascinating. Im having a good time learning something new.
  20. We saw lots of minerals react to the light. Fungus too. And the root bark of nopal glows red. I think it is fungus on the root. One type of moth attracted to the light is brilliant blue. Some rocks absorb the light and are coal black. But in regular light are light colored volcanic. It is strange how some things glow brilliantly and other things absorb the light. It is a lot like metal detecting. You get a positive or a negative response. Only instead of sound it is light.
  21. There were flies and moths all over. It was one of those nights after a 104 degree day that everything came out to play. The black light attracts a certain type of moth for sure. But not every bug like a regular light. It is strange and I have not quite figured it out yet. Some things see that light and some do not. The scorpions light up like a neon sign but they don't seem to be bothered with it. If you shine a regular light on them they get nervous and hide. We went out last night and saw a dozen or so. Here in the Chihuahuan desert they are pretty small. You hardly ever see one in the desert. Only around footings, under rocks and boards. But the black light shows they are all over the place and you just don't know it. We saw one big one and she had several tiny ones around her. Obviously a mama. And I saw a couple that were tiny like a mustard seed. Little neon specks crawling around. Im hunting them in several different places. In Arroyo, on ridges, in sand and in gravel. Around the footings of the house and wood piles. So far the ridges on gravel in the open desert have had the most. You would think they would be down under the bushes in the arroyos and in thicker cover. But so far that theory has not been correct. They seem to be up on the barren open ridges with only sparse creosote growing. We flipped over a lot of rocks and found one. Most were on rocks at the base of little creosote. And several were just walking around on bare desert pavement in the open. All were on gravel areas where they could dive down between rocks for cover. We have not seen one in fine sand or gravel. Only in gravel big enough to have some voids in and around it for cover. I am going to hunt around my house tonight. At the edges of slabs and footings. Around rock walls and wood piles. I see lizards hunting them in those spots so im going to see if I can find a few on the property.
  22. Scorpion hunting with my toddler... He caught a fly and was going for another. Video.mov
  23. IMHO examining what you think might be an impact on the concrete is not a worthwhile effort. The rock is the only thing that really matters. I'm not sure how the concrete or the fence is relative to the discussion. The rock is odd. An expert needs to take a look and render an opinion. There is not much more that anyone could do to prove or disprove it is a meteorite. Neither the sidewalk nor the fence lends any clues to the origin of the stone. If anything it indicates that the stone is not a meteorite if the damage was indeed caused by your stone. I am not sure what information an assay might offer. Can you tell us why you think an assay might provide information on the origin?
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