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  2. a thing to think about is...If you buy a detector from Bill , you also get instructions too...in my opinion it would be...GLOD monster for just GOLD OR Equinox 800 for general hunting, Talk to Bill about your choice on either machine...can't go wrong buying from a GREAT dealer.....my opinion.
  3. Today
  4. Great pic bro!

  5. Hey thanks BMc. I'll study them. They tout quality and their detectors do look pretty good. Oh i was going to ask do you go out metal detecting in the summer's here in AZ? I want to but i don't want the heat to slowly kill my new detector.
  6. Or, you could just wait awhile 'til the weather heats up a bit and leave it out in the sun for about 30 seconds with a raw egg, hash browns and bacon on top of it. Then finger it with a little bacon grease, slip it over the coil and have breakfast!
  7. I've run across a couple of users in the field who had good things to say about the Gold Racer. At 54 kHz they should be sensitive to smaller, as well as larger nuggets. The comments were that hot rocks/mineralization is still an issue (at Wickenberg) but manageable. You might look at the Makro Multi Kruzer which has three frequencies to choose from (5 kHz, 14 kHz and 19 kHz). Features: Waterproof to 5 meters (16 feet) and increased depth function. Basically similar ability to handle hot ground. Expectations are that it will be OK in moderate to slightly hot areas but the real hot stuff will still be an issue as with "most" VLF detectors. I just picked one up for a combo coin, water and prospecting tool to see how it performs. It seems to be built well, has a good screen/meter set up, rechargeable batter plus extra battery pack option. Accurate on coins, and discriminates satisfactorily on ferrous, trash and bottle caps so far IMO. I'll try it in the gold fields later this summer. You might also check out the Makro Gold Kruzer at 61 kHz. Good reviews and features on that one as well.
  8. Fred, I would bet that the cover is PVC thermoplastic. PVC is easily reshaped at about 175 degrees. It will start losing form at about 220. Any PVC (or other thermoplastic) has a "sweet spot" as far as heat goes and that is when the inside of the piece reaches the optimum forming temperature. The surface is often much hotter and you need to be careful not to overheat the surface and small projections trying to get the core temp right. . Slowly preheat the item in the oven to about 160 degrees and then take it the rest of the way with a heat gun (not a blow dryer. A blow dryer does not get hot enough to form thermoplastic). A round object like that could be placed on a lazy susan or some other spinning device so you could spin it and evenly heat up those fingers without taking it out of the oven. The trick is to get the core temps into the thermoforming range without overheating the surface and this takes patience. Most guys get in too big a hurry and overheat the items in one spot and warp things. That big flat surface would be easy to tweak if the heat was uneven. I have made a bunch of PVC items like knife sheaths (Kydex), handgun holsters (Kydex), detector poles (PVC) and all sorts of mounting brackets. I have also done a pantload of plastic welding on HDPE, LDPE and ABS items. Kayaks are rotomolded thermoplastic HDPE and they are easy to re-shape, weld and modify. It is all the same with any thermoplastic as long as you know the exact temperature range you need to shape, bend or weld. I use a laser surface thermometer and my kitchen oven to preheat the item to the proper temps for forming and then take it the rest of the way with a heat gun. I know the output temp of the heat gun because I checked it with a mercury thermometer on the various settings. Since you don't need to weld or reshape anything all you really need to do is get the piece above 160 degrees all the way to the core without overheating. I would simply pop it in the oven with a pizza pan under it and foil over it to keep an even temp. Let it sit in the heat for ten minutes or so to insure the core temps are the same as the surface temps and then push it down on the coil. It will go below the forming temps really quick and get solid fast as long as you don't get it way too hot. There are lots of HDPE and PVC items that you could make your own covers out of for pennies. I make all sorts of stuff out of "Playskool" kids toys which are HDPE thermoplastic. Pieces big enough to form coil covers are readily available and you could form one as easily as you could fit the factory cover on your coil. I make awesome shake guards, metatarsal guards and all sorts of cool items from old kids toys. Old milk jugs, water cans and 5 gallon buckets can be easily re-shaped into almost anything you need. All it takes is knowing what type of plastic you have and the proper temperatures to form it. You can easily weld a new bottom on a coil cover getting thin, repair a hole in a kayak or make a holster for your Glock out of a kid's toy. All it takes is the proper temperature range and filler material.
  9. We have had an inordinate amount of rain here in central AZ too. Seems like every time I drag a bunch of tools out...it starts raining. Nice Toyota, it should do well.
  10. VERY FUNNY!!! not yet, I am waiting for a warm and sunny day to massage my coil cover... fred
  11. A genuinely helpful person, seriously dedicated to educating and enlightening others about detecting for gold, great guy to talk to, one that will truly be missed. All the best, Lanny
  12. Yes indeed What do you guys think about this detector? it looks high class... https://www.noktadetectors.com/metal-detector/gold-racer/
  13. So Fred, how did it go? I picture you sitting on the floor with a jar of coconut oil and a hair dryer. Did it work? More importantly, did you get video?
  14. garikfox: I'm not a White's guy, but I would get a TDI over a 24K and truth be told, for my money's worth and if I was just starting out, I would pick up a good used GB2 instead, with a 6.5 and a 10 inch coil and learn how to use it. (Steve H. seemed to prefer the GMT) I will admit the 24K looks pretty sexy though . . .
  15. Using the 5000, I wear a pouch type hip mount for the processor/battery for weight distribution, and a converted Fisher GB Pro "S" rod which makes it lighter and a lot easier and more comfortable to maneuver (for me) From what I hear about the 4500, they're an excellent unit. I have seen the TDI in action and no doubt they find gold. I don't know how they stack up for depth or how they handle hot ground. I stayed with the ML because I know from experience that they will do that quite nicely (IMO)
  16. Yesterday
  17. Thanks for the comments "ALL"'.... Well adam I don't know that I would consider the foxtail grasses to be the "most dangerous" in my photo's, but I do agree that they not only hide a rattler "all-to-"Well"" when ya walk thru them; but I also do hate it when they hitch a ride in my socks, boots, and,... the cursed things really stick to my shoe laces .....And you sure don't want to just pluck them off when you get home and just let them fly in the wind outside your door step, as they will start growing on your property As for ruining my detecting day,....that "I" did myself by not taking a backup battery for my detector that day. UGH I usually keep my batteries well charged after each days usage, but it is hard to tell when they start "not holding" that charge, or when they start loosing their charge too fast during detector usage. So, thinking that I had a fully charged battery, I was working my way slowly up the wash, and had only use the battery about 2-hours when I began hearing that dreaded warning sound that the battery makes when it is almost dead, on it's last leg, and/or is dying, ...or about to die. So, if I hear that sound (which I have heard once or twice in the past), the next sound that I hear would be from me saying:..."Oh Crap!!!" I was glad though that the very first spot that morning that gave me the very first signal was the one nugget that I found (the 15-20 other signals where all lead slugs). It was kind of cool (and not-usually-of-the-norm) to just turn the detector on, ground balance it and then the first spot I put the coil over gave me the signal of that nugget!!!,.........What a way to start a day. So, Yes, I will be packing an extra (newer and charged) battery with me as backup from now on. Gary
  18. fredmason, Thanks. Yeah it is kind of , i'm trying to figure out what would be best for me. I think i got it narrowed down. 24k or GM1000
  19. Thanks AllenJ, the 24k does indeed look nice, i'm liking it more than the rest. But than again the GM1000 will end up being cheaper because i'd have to buy the extra concentric coil for the 24k. Hmm... I sent a email to White's and they replied promptly to my inquiry about their TDI SL SE. My email said. Hello, I was wondering if your TDI SL special edition was comparable to minelab gpx-4500? They replied. Dear Garik Fox Thank you for your interest in White’s products. Yes, White’s TDI SL Special addition is comparable to all the high power pulse models. Typically, the TDI SL Special Addition is a fraction of the price, a fraction of the weight, and provides comparable performance. Sincerely Steve Howard White’s USA
  20. I felt like I was being watched, now you know what wash I dropped into. lol!
  21. Garifox you should be completely confused and befuddled by now. If money is a concern start small... If you must have the newest, brightest toy; go BIG! When I started in 1980 I had visions of big nuggets and great wealth...my first detected nugget came after many vain and false starts...the size of a grain of rice!!! What a thrill, what a memory! I have done moderately well since, learned a lot and made many great friends. There in lies the real gold. good luck fred
  22. Thanks Shay. I did see a 4Runner. If it was you, I watched you pull up and then ducked below the ridgeline. Thanks again to everyone else. Always glad to participate and share some experiences along the way. To be clear, the 14 nuggets pictured were found a couple, to a few at a time. Not all in one day.
  23. Congrats my brother! Very proud of you. Brings memories of detecting at Gibson Park-Did you put pic of your Isle of Man piece you found! Best of luck. I will probably be getting 3 copies!!! Love your Sis!
  24. Hi garikfox, I've read this post with interest the last couple of days and there is a lot of really good advice in it from very experienced people. I want to add my thoughts but please keep in mind I've only been at this for a little over a year now, so I am still very new to it. I just recently purchased a new VLF gold detector. I did my research and it came down to either the 24k or Gold Monster 1000, I believe they are both excellent VLF gold machines and you can't go wrong with either one. I ended up with the GM since my local dealer sells Minelab detectors and he helped me sell an AT Gold to partially fund the purchase. Last summer I picked up a TDI SL SE, to answer your question about it vs a GPX....there is no comparison! I'm basing that off using a GPX 5000 and TDI SL side by side, the 5000 saw both smaller and deeper targets. My understanding is the only difference between the 4500 and 5000 are a couple of added timings for the 5000 so results should be very comparable. Knowing that though the TDI is still my go to prospecting machine, being as lightweight as it is I find it way more comfortable to swing than the GPX. I hopes this helps sir.
  25. BMc, Thank you very much for your information. I'm most likely going to get the GM24K. I'm curious what do you think about the limited time deal on the White's TDI SL Special Edition for only $1050? It's significantly less expensive than the GPX-4500
  26. Nailed that one Adam. Frigging fox tails fill up the socks then you spend all of lunch plucking them out. Then again at home.
  27. Yeah, then you spend an hour when you get home picking them out of your socks and boot laces. Nice nugget Gary!
  28. Nice finds dude! I was down there Sunday as well. Did you see my 4Runner parked near that area? We got in late and left early so maybe not. There was a couple large groups of quad riders, unusual for that side road.
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