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ArcticDave

ArcticDave's Legal Eagle XL

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Beginning the cylinder head work. You can see all the material taken out of the second head. Unshrouding the valves removed ~2cc's of aluminum so far. I stopped a full cc short of the target and will take the rest out with finer and finer grit abrasive rolls.

20180324_163107.jpg

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How are you measuring it.  Water Volume ?

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I'm a little puzzled here Dave, Why would you stroke it with a longer crank or rods and then take out head combustion space? We also used to put stainless over sized valves to increase combustion pressures on top of stroking.

AzNuggetBob

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I think he's after the Torque not HP via High Compression.  High Compress causes ware and dependability issues. 

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Yep. I made a sealing disk out of some spare acrylic sheet. Install the valves and spark plug and fill with water. I am shooting for 60cc chamber volume.

I got this one dead on at 60cc. Still a lot of work to do, but I did get the chamber polished up after hogging it out.

Bob, I had to drop the CR so it will live on pump gas. If I had left it alone my CR would have been 10.7:1. I'm going with about 8.2:1 to help control heat. It's not the best way to do it...but budget dictates I use the stock 040 heads I already have. If money were no object and I could afford a bigger head, like a CB 044 that had sufficient chamber volume, I could run a tight deck to take advantage of piston quench. That would let me really bump up the compression for a cleaner burn and a lot more power. Hopefully by the time I wear the ones I am building out...I can afford a good cylinder head.

20180326_111408.jpg

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Wow Dave that head is fly cut way out there. your way into the stud holes. not much room left. the polish looks good. I think it will work out.

AzNuggetBob

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Posted (edited)

What was the CC on this and did you get it built this way?.

AzNuggetBob

Edited by AzNuggetBob

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3 hours ago, AzNuggetBob said:

What was the CC on this and did you get it built this way?.

AzNuggetBob

Stock 040 heads have itty bitty 38cc combustion chambers. If you look at the pic, you can spot the step the machine shop left in the head. That step was needed to increase the chamber volume. Of course that results in a much taller deck height, which isn't ideal....but it is what it is.

With the step factored in that head had 54cc of volume. I took out an additional 6cc's to bring it up to 60cc. Add the .040 copper head gasket in there and that brings the total to 68cc. Right on target for 8.2:1 compression.

The 044 heads have more meat in the casting and can tolerate more carving out of the chamber. I can order them with 65cc+ chambers which would allow me to eliminate the tall deck height and build a more efficient engine. All the other half vw's seem to follow the same formula I did. It works fine...I just think it could be better. :idea:

On the stud holes in the head, 94mm pistons are the max size possible....right there on the ragged edge isn't it? :brows:

 

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LOL Emergency Horse Power can be had !

Emergancy Horse Power.JPG

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Building intake and exhaust flanges this morning. I used stainless steel tubing for both the intake manifolds and the exhaust stacks. The flanges are simply 1/4" 6061 aluminum drilled, then cut to shape. I have a sheet of annealed copper that I will use for gasket material. That should insure a long leak free service life.

20180404_083052.jpg

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Gosh darn it!!! ... Aren't you flying that thing yet? LOL! Slow and steady ... no mistakes as they are a bit costly once airborne! :thumbsupanim

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It would probably go faster if I had a budget higher than....roughly zero :tisk-tisk:

Then again, maybe not! So many little details to lose track off :ROFL:

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Intake and exhaust finished up!

20180404_152637.jpg

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LOOKING Good

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What's left ?

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A few days worth of some little details...but the engine is getting close :)

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20 hours ago, ArcticDave said:

Building intake and exhaust flanges this morning. I used stainless steel tubing for both the intake manifolds and the exhaust stacks. The flanges are simply 1/4" 6061 aluminum drilled, then cut to shape. I have a sheet of annealed copper that I will use for gasket material. That should insure a long leak free service life.

20180404_083052.jpg

Emmm  Caught me doing about the same stuff on this bike engine. LOL  Found out the  Banana Expansion Pipe I got from china was too restrictive.  only had a Stinger of 1cm ID. Cut it off and added a 1.5cm stinger.  No welding equipment so silver solder it was.  If the Vibrations don't shake it loose It will work.   Wish I had some of the Tools  you have at hand. 

I send a harassment note to the guy doing the Programing on the Engine Management yesterday.  Waiting. 

 

Original.jpg

Stinger Transplant.jpg

Silver Soldered.jpg

Done Ready to cut to tune.jpg

Copper Gasket.jpg

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Hahahaha...my gaskets look exactly the same. :brows:

What is the melt point of the silver solder you used? I know some of the brazing alloys like stay-silv have pretty high melting points and may work okay. The gases inside will be can be up 1350°F, but the pipe temp itself shouldn't be anywhere near that...especially with some airflow. It should work okay I think.

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That end of the Pipe won't be getting anything like that hot.  This is the Lead Free Crap.  Solid at 425 F (degree Fahrenheit), liquid at 430 F.   If it Blurks eaaaa,   I'll just have it done right.    After I get it fired up I'll measure it.  I got one of these we talked about before for my head temp gauge. .  I  Plan on using a 5V electrical system for everything  . These say there 12v but it works just fine down to 3.7V when I was messing around with it.  .  LOL.

 

https://www.banggood.com/Red-LED-DC12V-Digital-Thermocouple-Thermometer-Temperature-meter-0999C-with-Probe-p-1031834.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

 

 

 

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Yup. I ordered some for the plane engine. Should be here soon. They should help a lot in fine tuning the carbs. :)

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Wish they were in  F Degrees but I'll just figure every hundred degrees is 212F x 1..   My little engine should not be allowed to see 400F. 

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Posted (edited)

I wish they came in F° as well. I am going to make a cheat sheet until I got used to the C°crap.

Edited by ArcticDave

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Yep, this one works my needs.

celsius-to-fahrenheit-conversion-chart.jpg

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Well....chit.

After many many hours of sanding and shaping and measuring, I fubar'd the whole shebang. Driving in new valve guides and split the guide bosses. This was a used cylinder head and I wonder if it had been overheated in its previous life, resulting in a brittle casting. This set is toast. I'll buy a new head when funds allow. In the meantime there is plenty of other work to be done. I'll bag the engine and store it to clear off the workbench for other construction phases. It's a setback for sure, but nothing that can't be dealt with. :)

20180411_130913.jpg

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Man I hate when $h!t like this happens, just when everything is going good a dark cloud dumps on ya and ruins the day or week!! :2mo5pow:

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