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ArcticDave

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I think I know where I want to locate the CHT probes, but having one on hand to verify that it will fit there is a good idea. After that,  I will measure all the branch legs and draw up a diagram for you. You have my addy?

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MorrisTown At Large should work, eeea?   Yea it's here in the Mix. 

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That might have worked with the old Postmaster! The new one is a California transplant from LA...and as smart about rural life as you'd think. 

Edited by ArcticDave
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  Here is the Idea.  Sort of Maybe ?  What Ya Thing ?  If you see issues better be yelping soon.  LOL

I forgot how small that engine really is.  You could go with the  Junction box on the Bulk Head Centered ? But then you have a bundle of Six wire sets going down the middle ?  Branching off.  Wire weight would be a bit more I suppose .  I really need the junction box to Transition from the two wire types and contain the Tach voltage circuit. 

If you want I can Just run the Belden  the whole route if 30ft  (All I Have) of wire is enough .  That would be less complicated but weigh more .  Would 30ft be enough to make 6 runs ?

Have a Look See and tell me what you think.

 

Bundle would be in that Expansion Net .  We have no conduit that size at the time.  

 

 

SixBeldinBundle.jpg

ProposedHarnessConcept.png

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Not trying to be interrupting, but can you use small PVC pipe to run the wires thru....I did that for a boat I was rewiring.

Just a thought , sorry to but in.

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Do sweat it Rick! Good idea :)

I'm not convinced we really need a conduit. I think that loom will suffice perfectly. 

Homey, I'll go measure as soon as I finish some chores. Be back shortly.

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Now that I'm not tired, I think the battery leads should go to the panel instead of the junction box. The battery will be behind the seat more than likely, so the panel would be closest to it anyway. 

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Had issues reading some.  LOL   See if I got this right.  I'm good if you supply power to the Breakout Box.  That way I get the Ground I need and  will just add one run of Belden pair along with the Data Cable as power to the Brain. 

 

 

DaveRenderingResized.jpg

Edited by homefire

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  Didn't catch your last post until I made this one.  Eaaa

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Ok

1) wire lengths are to the thermo couples themselves. Position any connector wherever is convenient. Towards the center of the case is the coolest. 

2) Roundy thing is distributor. It needs a 5" lead from the the 15" branch node.

3) coil leads that happen at the 8" location need to be 6" long,  not 10" as in your notations.  I should have gone over it with a sharpie...

4) junction box = breakout box. 

5) do you need unswitched battery voltage at the breakout box? The ground will be there regardless of switched or unswitched positive. I'll parallel whatever you need with your data cable.

My thinking was, I could power it all through a stout push pull switch I have here. That would allow me to kill everything(engine and panel)with one switch. 

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???   Lost here .   Do the Points Make Ground or supply Pos Battery ?  It looks like you have it supplying Ground ?

If the coil is tied to Pos continuously I need to do some rethinking on how I'm going to obtain the Tach signal. 

Edited by homefire

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Yep thats how veedub does it. The coil has + anytime the ignition is on. The points supply a ground to build and collapse the magnetic field in the coil. The points obtain the ground from the body of the distributor itself. Since there is a voltage signal at that - post on the coil everyone else has just tapped in there for the tach signal. It would show positive with a test light because its flowing towards the distributor...I think :idunno:

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If VW does it that way I guess We do too.  LOL      This set up is going to give me a constant 12v .  I think the Fly Back from the Coil will provide the Pulse for the Tack.  No changes Required on what I was going to do for Tach Signal.

 

Here is the Latest Schematic.  See what I missed.  Could use a Guestimate on  where your thinking of locating the Brain ? Back side of  Panel ?  The Ribbon Cable I have for between Brain and the Display is 30" long. 

What AWG Wire are you needing for the Ignition wires ?  Guessing 14AWG  Stranded ?

         
   
 

 

 

           
           
           
           

 

UpDate Schematic.png

WireGuage.JPG

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That looks good. :thumbsupanim

Ignition only draws 4-5 amps so 14g would be plenty. Probably could go smaller, but I like primary wiring beefy. 

Lets locate the brain with the panel. We have a ton of room behind it. 

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Cool .  You can just role up any un needed Ribbon to the Display.  You can take it up and over or under and up.  Just let me know what you prefer so I orientate the Connector as needed. 

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I assume building the Harness I don't need to put any terminals on the Points, Coil, Switch wires ?  Other wise if you let me know what the Eyelet size is I can do it.  I will Solder all the Connector terminals I do. 

When you buy the Oil Pressure Sensor It should come with a Connector and Pig Tails.  I'll give you a few of the same connectors we're using on the other stuff. 

 

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and yes I can install terminals where required on my end. That will give a little leeway on final position. 

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  Questions Dave:

Where your putting the junction Box do you see that area reaching Temps over 185F ? 

How far does that 42 inches go to the Engine?   Middle?  Rear End ?

If we can keep the temps at or below 185F I can locate the MAX6675's in that Junction Box and Co Locate the Brain with the Display. That would tidy up  wire mess  gain Reliability I think.

 

 

 

 

 

 

UpDate Schematic Two.png

Edited by homefire

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3 hours ago, homefire said:

  Questions Dave:

Where your putting the junction Box do you see that area reaching Temps over 185F ? 

How far does that 42 inches go to the Engine?   Middle?  Rear End ?

If we can keep the temps at or below 185F I can locate the MAX6675's in that Junction Box and Co Locate the Brain with the Display. That would tidy up  wire mess  gain Reliability I think.

 

 

 

 

 

 

UpDate Schematic Two.png

The box would be located behind the engine firewall in the nose of the fuselage, so temps should never see 185. 

That 42" number came from following the outside tubes(so we had something tie it to). I have an idea to support the harness right down the middle, straight from panel to breakout box. It would only take 24" of your data cable that way. 

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Ok so on the Fire Wall.   Behind Engine.   Cool Beans.   This will save me piles of issues and be better for you.    When you know what Oil Pressure Sensor your going to be using let me know the Make and Model numbers.  I need to look it up and see what the Voltage curve is on it. 

 I've sorted out the MAX 6675 Adruino program to the most parts.

Have a functional program for the Tach now.

Have a Functional program to read the Oil Sensor.

Sense we are using the same Graphics Display as the Original EFI system uses I should be able to us most of the Print functions from that to get all your numbers on the Display with a few hours of head banging. 

The Arduino is not going to be to provide all your numbers in Real Time but they will be so close I don't think your going to notice too much. 

The Tach Program is going to be Base the on a 1 second sample durration.  After that the Arduino will need to Sample all four MAX6675's  and the Oil Pressure in series and UP Date all numbers all at the same time.  I have to use a 200uS delay allowing each MAX 6675 to wake up and send a accurate reading.  All of that is going to take  like 800uS.  The Oil Pressure  reading will consume hardly any time at all.  None of the numbers presented on the Display should be older then 2 seconds or less if I get it right. . 

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I think that is plenty responsive enough!

 

Ordered oil sender. I copied this from the description itself. There are a couple of reference outputs listed. Is that info enough to calibrate it? I can mail it over to you if not. 

· Stainless steel body.
· 100% brand new and high quality,Durable.
· Input: 0-150 psi. 
· Output: 0.5V – 4.5V linear voltage output. 0 psi outputs 0.5V, 75 psi outputs 2.5V, 150 psi outputs 4.5V.
· Current draw: less than 4 mA.
· Accuracy: within 1.5% of reading (full scale).
· Burst (over or max pressure) pressure: minimum 300 psi.
· Wiring: Red for +5V. Black for ground. Blue for signal output.
· Thread: 1/8”-27 NPT. (see our fitting set for other thread size below).
· Works for oil, fuel, water or air pressure. Can be used in oil tank, gas tank, etc

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"" Output: 0.5V – 4.5V linear voltage output. 0 psi outputs 0.5V, 75 psi outputs 2.5V, 150 psi outputs 4.5V. ""

I can work with that I think.  

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